90 MPH to nothing -and a new Marfy

Can I share a secret?
I take my job way too seriously...

In March I decided to give up the familiar work with great coworkers and headed to a new job back in the suburbs.  The terrific news is, I no longer worked 70 - 80 hours a week or spent 2 hours a day in traffic!

Marfy 3698, in my old new office

I got to downshift from 90 mph to 60 mph.

I liked the job, the company, and the 50 hour work week. Its business casual, how can you not love that!

On May 29th I was informed that the due to the downturn in oil and gas drilling, my services were no longer required...

Have you ever slammed on the brakes doing 60 mph?

Free with 2015 catalog

So, more on being unemployed later...

You're really here for the new Marfy, right…

With my new found sewing time I've finally finished one thing!

So I made it a good thing!  I love this blouse!  Its a free pattern with the 2015 catalog.

Bias layout -Isn't that fabric gorgeous!!!

This silk CDC is from an Australian store called Tessuti, their online store is here and they get the most stunning digital print silks.  If you look closely you can tell that its a panel, there is a ;one where the pattern mirrors.

It is very simple pattern, a front and a back.

This is 138 cms wide and I got 1.25 meters which was (almost) perfect, with a little creativity.

Can you see the seam?

I had to finagle it and it wouldn't quite fit so I decided to added a seam across the back from the neckline to the armhole.

You don't even notice it for the gorgeous print.  Here you can also see the line between the design panels.

Rose Gathering, Tessuti

Here is the fabric picture from Tessuti.

Good think I've been stashing fabric.

Well, tomorrow is Monday of week 2.

I'm going to keep my sanity and keep my days on track.  I have a to-do list and I keep myself to it.

Everyday I vow to:

• Clean something (like my car or a closet)
• Apply for something (and harass a recruiter)
• Sew something

The forces of EEEVIILLL come in many forms

Its weird, I haven't been unemployed for more than 2 weeks since umm, 2009 I guess.  Ironically the 6 month temp job lasted for 4 years, the supposed career position lasted 3 months.

My biggest struggle is against the supreme dark forces that rule the house.  

The over-stuffed recliner, soft-purry-kitty combination creates a wormhole in the space time continuum that is inescapable and makes time fast forward.  I could doze to the 7AM news and awaken to Jerry Springer 4 hours later.

The great soft-purry one even tries to hijack sewing.  Although she prefers to rest on white fabrics where she looks pretties, she will settle for whatever interrupts me the most.

Oh, I need more coffee.
I could research, apply, follow up and setup meetings
Or I could watch sewing tutorials, and shop...

So, when you roll yourself out of bed and drag yourself through Monday morning traffic think of me.  I'm on the back porch with no shoes picking through job listings, sipping coffee, watching birds, checking out Instagram and feeling sorry for all those people stuck in traffic.

Unemployment happens, you must prepare years in advance.  Prepare with conservative purchases of big things and hoarding the necessities like good scissors, lots of coffee, lots of sewing projects and supplies.

First I'm working on some every day casual clothes.  I know that Marfy can appear to be a little too 'guest of the wedding' but it also works for 'guest of the grocery store' and you're not going to have an interview day.  Some days you must research and network at a baseball game or a nail salon.  You never know where you will make great contacts and meet the perfect controller looking for the perfect assistant controller…

Up next, I'll post some work wear!

Oh, how I've missed thee, let me count the ways...

With Rhonda and Andrea at High Fashion

Oh, I've missed you too sweet sewing and sweet blog friends.

I've been busy, no lack of inspiration
Gosh how long has it been.  Before Susan Khalje class?
Oh my, I've got some catching up to do.

I had brunch and fabric shopping with my adorable friends Rhonda and Andrea.  I don't remember the day, but it was my last day off.  What a wonderful way to spend a Sunday!  Thank you so much ladies, discussions of fabric and patterns and fitting were fun.  How is that wedding dress coming Andrea?

Marfy 3089

But for now, a weekend off.  I have one problem client from work who's filing hangs like a dangling participle.  I'll worry about that on Monday.

I have a shirt started.  Its short sleeved.  Don't laugh, that's totally doable in Houston.  It may only get up to 50, but here in the office they crank the space heaters to 75 so sweaters are absolutely out of the question.

The pattern calls for stretch knit, but the CDC has some give and I plan on putting an invisible zipper down the side.

My fabric is navy floral CDC from Tessuti.  The colors are mesmerizing and the details are astonishing.  The front drape is an overlay.

Magic Dragonfly CDC

But first, cleaning and a short work out.  I miss the gym almost as much as sewing.  For supper, soup's in the crockpot and fresh salad for my cholesterol screening this month.

I had a life, then my job ate it.
Now I'm fighting back.

I've missed you!

More on the shirt and pattern later, plus a gathering of the UFO's.

Marfy 3400 -that's OK, I meant to do that

How many times have you seen a RTW garment and you see something that you swear was an accident.  I mean like the exposed zipper.  There is no way that was on purpose the first time.

Marfy 3400

Exposed seams were the trend for awhile.  It looked wrong side out to me.

Or the center front seam on a sheath dress?  I look at that and think "Huh, made it too wide"

Color blocking, "Somebody didn't buy enough fabric"

WELLLL, ask me how I know.

The white neck band… Yep, not in the pattern.  Looks nice though, it kind of draws the design of the fabric together.  With the little slit in the neck back it looks absolutely deliberate.

I got in a hurry, worked in a poorly lit room and cut my facing out of my shirt front.

That's OK, I can make a design element…
For $XX/yard silk charmeuse I can turn lots of things into a design element.  It beats a really expensive pajama top.

in pieces!

This is a gorgeous design border print from Emma One Sock.  The picture even doesn't do the color justice.  I have never seen a cobalt blue this saturated.
I cut the back on the bias.  I'm so in love with bias cut silk charmeuse right now!


I bought several yards, I could have recut or worked around.  Or, I could save it and have enough left over for a way too awesome jacket lining.


I sewed this in brief intervals while working overtime.  OK, maybe I should be more focused and not stop and start so often.  Its still a very satisfying relatively instant gratification project.

Everyone at work Fawned over it.  Its funny how people pass over the hours spent on a meticulously tailored jacket or a perfectly fitted pair of jeans that you spent years developing, but they absolutely adore a super easy casual top.  Nobody even cared about the french seams, I had them in love at the matched seams...

As for the front band, it isn't absolutely perfectly straight, or even or maybe even perfectly symmetrical.
I like to think of it as artistic.
After all, when I sewed on the front band I was convinced that I was working on a pajama top, or something for grocery shopping on saturdays.


As for more sewing projects, I'm actually working on a muslin!  Its for Susan Khalje class next week.  I'm also working on a skirt.  Marfy 2531 skirt.  The pattern is pinned here.

Dress Pattern Perfection Marfy 3339

I finally found the perfect sheath dress!

Marfy 3339 drawing

Marfy 3339 pictured here with the color removed for creative interpretation. I like to scan the drawings, then play coloring book during my breaks at the office.

I can ramble like this because the pattern is shear perfection.

Mine looks a little more A-line than the pattern.  I debated taking in the fullness and making it straight until mid morning when the printer jammed and I spent 15 minutes on my hands and knees pulling tiny scraps of paper out.  I noticed the crowd of people watching and realized how nice it was to not have my hiney sticking out of a tight skirt.

I really love this dress and I'm happier then I look.  But, the work day was long and its about 95F out there.

Marfy 3339

The coworker approval rate was extremely high and the compliments flowed in all day.  I had 2 different people ask me how many sizes I had lost, not pounds, but SIZES!

I just noticed that I forgot to pick out the buttons!  Well, that's what happens when you hem the dress for wearing at 630AM.  I have some navy pearl shank buttons that should be a nice touch.

The waist cinches perfectly, accented by the color inset.  The bust shapes perfectly with a small dart that shows on the left side of the drawing.  This dart is on both sides of the pattern for shaping which is a much better alternative then just having the color block seam run over the top of the bust point.

The Marfy size chart can be found here and I have found the 1 1/2" inches of ease through the bust and hips to be pretty consistent.  The fit isn't tight through the waist, the ease is about 4 inches.

notice the bust darts and the front pleat extension

This pattern come in sizes 42, 46 and 50.  I cut a 46 and the measurements for this size are:

Bust:  39 1/2"
Waist:  34 1/2"
Hips:  41"
Back Waist Length:  15 3/4"
Front Length, Shoulder to Bust: 10"
Sleeve width:  14"

The only fit change that I would make next time is to lower the bust dart by 1".  It is kind of high for them and it stops above my but point.  If it bugs me and I get fussy I may lower it on this dress, but I doubt it.

Marfy 3339 left side

I love this pattern so much.  You could make a perfect simple dress block by copying the left side of the pattern and extending the dart to the hem for a princess seam. You could also double the color blocked side and color block in black and white for an interesting look.

The fabric is a gorgeous 65% polyester and 35% cotton tweed from Sew Much Fabric that is 60" wide and has a nice tight weave.  The navy inset is tropical weight wool .  I lined in navy Bemberg lining.

I think this is the only garment that I own that is polyester.  I'm such a fabric snob!  I like it though.  The weave and the cotton allow it to breathe relatively well for poly.  But as you can see it does wrinkle and doesn't hold a crease as well as wool.  I love the colors and the versatility so I'm making a skirt out of it too.


The shoes you ask ?????  Well, those are fabulous L.K. Bennett's in a beautiful shimmering silver suede that I got myself for my birthday present.  They still have some available here.

Future Plans 

I have enlisted in Susan Khalje's Couture Sewing School in August and I think that I will use the right front of this pattern to make a basic dress pattern block.  I am really excited about finally taking THE class and getting to spend an entire week sewing with my fellow seamstresses and learning from the master.

Susan is the write of THE Bridal Couture sewing book that was my go-to book back in the dressmaking days.  I really look forward to meeting her and saying thank you for all the guidance and inspiration.

Marfy 3339 back

But for today, I talked myself in to entering that Pattern Review wardrobe contest again so I'm cranking out the garments!  I have the blouse and this dress done as 2 out of 5 garments.  I have 5 days to get 2 skirts and a short sleeved jacket done.  *sigh* kidding, right?  Every year I try this.  I always get some interesting things done, but never the whole wardrobe.  I guess a wardrobe catch-up post is in order.  I still haven't finished last years.  Should I have tackled that first?  Of course not!


OK, just one more picture.  Here's the back:

I'm pretty happy with the fit, I may tweak the sleeves a bit.
I don't think these little issues would've been worth making a muslin for.  There are some under-bust wrinkles that indicate tightness, but when I lose another couple of pounds I'll probably have to take it in anyway.

Once again, I'm wallowing in Marfy bliss.

Marfy 0303 T-shirt pics

Free Marfy 0303

As styled for work with navy J.Crew pants.

I like the front.  The neckline hugs without pulling.

The peak of the crossover looks nice.

I serged and turned under the hem and it curled.
It curled and curled and curled.  I swear its about an inch longer (and needs to be) when it isn't curled.
They best way that I found to keep knits flat for sewing is spray starch.

Spray 'sizing' on the left, starch on the right

Seriously, hands down better than sizing spray.

The down side is that you have to give yourself enough time to make a couple of passes and let it dry between starching.

The right edge of the pieces is interfaced with fusible tricot.

BTW, I ended up taking about an inch out of the fullness because it bunched.

Interior, interfacing in the middle, clear elastic at the neck

Insides as finished:

• interfacing on the center seam
• clear elastic on the neckline
• armholes were turned under and stitched

OK, the arms are a little unstable and gapey.  I should have used interfacing there I guess.  They do stretch a little.

I also used the terrific precision seaming zigzag method.  I'll post more on that later.

Marfy Gold 9462, Wardrobe piece 3

Marfy 9462 circa 2005

Change of plans for the fall wardrobe!
I found this pattern in my stash while organizing patterns this summer.
LOVE LOVE LOVE!  Especially in yummy 4 ply silk from SMF

This is so 'me'.  It reminds me of blouse 1903 which is lovely and slimming, but not so practical.  The sleeves don't fit well under a jacket, and they make it a bit dressy for office days.  The fabric is also very light weight and flowy (which is perfect for this pattern) but I'm always afraid that I will spill something on it.



Marfy 1903 in Badgley Mishka print

So, 1903 doesn't leave the closet as often as it deserves and I hope to incorporate some of the wonderful things from it into 9462.
What I am proposing now is a harmonious marriage between 1903 and 9462.
9462 has a collar which makes it office worthy, but I will extend the length to match 1903.  Another change that I will make is to have it close with a side zip.  Anne the Clothing Engineer made a very lovely blouse from this pattern and used a side zip instead of buttons and a tie.  What a genius solution!  Why didn't I think of that?  This will allow the blouse to be a little more fitted and more secure.

You could put the right collar on a tank top and make it look like professional attire.

The length of 9462 come only 1/2" below the waist at 17 1/2" which is 4" too short.
It is also EXTREMELY fitted throough the waist to match the design. 


Marfy 1903

9462 Size 46:
B:  39.5"  ~ 1 1/2" of easeW:  30"  ~ no ease!
Back Length:  17 1/2" to the hem
Bust length:  11 1/2"

1903 Size 44:
B:  39" ~ 1" of ease
W:  32 1/2" ~ 4" of ease
Back Length:  21 1/2" to the hem
Bust Length:  10 1/2"

The front and back of both patterns compare very closely making it easy to meld the length from 1903 with the neckine and collar of 9462.

Comparison of 1903 (longer) and 9462 (shorter)

 Notice how much more fitted the front of 9462 is with the dart that is almost 2 1/2"!  I also notice how closely matched the armscye and shoulder line are!

I am unsure of the sleeves though, what sleeve design works well with 4 ply crepe that isn't long!  Full length sleeves aren't necessary in a climate that has high temperatures in the 60's all winter.

Marfy 2280

The 4th piece of my wardrobe plan is a leather and wool skirt in all black which I have been trying to document.  But as you can imagine, evening pics of black leather on black fabric look like the abyss.  I am using my favorite skirt pattern 2280.
I am making the side panels and waist band out of  black leather and the front and back centers and pleats (both are one pattern piece in an 'L' shape) out of black wool twill.
Sewing leather to fabric has turned out to be so easy.  You don't use pins, you use binder clips to hold the fabric and the leather together.  You sew with a leather needle.

Marfy 2314 tie-neck blouse, wardrobe piece 2

Must finish one before starting another...  Is much harder than I thought.
Scary September is hard!  I vowed to challenge myself to finish SOMETHING before starting anything new and I have been doing fairly well.

Marfy 2314 front

The pants are still in a time out sitting in the corner.  I need to spend some quality time with them and not rush.  I won't take too long, 3 pairs of pants with lining makes quite a pile.

I am very happy to say that I am done with the blouse!
There is Marfy Alchemy totally at work here!
Ugh!  Thank goodness for the alchemy, I don't look an ounce over 180 lbs *grimace*.  Its funny how it takes 6 months of work to shed a few, but they pop right back up in a matter of weeks.
Getting old sucks!  Oh well, back to the diet and exercise!

The pattern is a size 46.  It measures Bust 40 1/2", Waist 35 1/2" and about 22" length.  The length to the bust point is 10 3/4" and the back waist length is 17 1/4"

I do love the pattern, it went together like a breeze.  The fabric is a silk charmeuse-like jacquard from Fine Fabrics during one of her wonderful 50% off sales.  Those lovely polka dots are all the rage this year, but I'm not sure its really me.  The dots seem a bit cute-sy.  But, I think that it works overall.

Marfy 2314 back

I chose the shorter, bracelet length sleeves over the long sleeves, they really need a contrasting fabric to accent the inset.  The sleeve length is perfect for my drafty office, even though my arms are a little heavier than I had planned *grimace*.  Lately I have adjusted for a 15 1/2" sleeve, this one is a bit tight so it looks like I have grown and need to shrink!

I did shorten the tie by and inch and make it narrower by two inches.  I also cut several inches off one end so that it can be tied like a men's tie knot instead of a dreadful bow. It works best with the light weight satin or chiffon as suggested, if you are making it in anything heavier you might want to make it narrower.

Recommended fabric aside, this would be very cute when done completely tongue in cheek with a menswear cotton shirting, a collar and men's tie fabric.  Hmmm, an idea for up-cycling from thrift stores perhaps...

I know that just about every pattern company now has a version of this blouse, but I trust Marfy.  I have the Syle Arc pattern, and I started to compare the two at work at lunch, but the HUGE pattern paper was too big for my desk.  I really appreciate the conciseness of Marfy's pre-cut, single size pieces!

Did I mention that I love MARFY? reason 2415

Not much to say really...
This was a quick sew.  Including the separate side back pattern (which I integrated into the center for only 1 back piece) there only 4 pattern piece.  That includes separate front pieces!

When I first took this out I thought it was ridiculous for a knit pattern.  There is a dart in the right front side, and those pesky side back pieces seem like overkill for a pattern whose only suggested fabric is jersey.

But it works like a charm: 
The shape skims my waist.
The neckline doesn't pull or gape.
The asymmetrical hem slims and drapes elegantly without looking contrived.
The shoulders gather without bulk.

Pattern with coordinating markings

I laid out the pattern before I cut and it didn't even look like it would fit together.
But I looked at all my beautiful Marfy clothes and decided to trust them.  I cut it pretty much as is, except I cut a shirt tail hem.  I like these better, I hate sitting in my office chair typing and wondering if there is some sort of wardrobe malfunction going on behind me.

Muslin you say?  Who me?

I don't need no stinkin' muslin, I sew with Marfy.

The pattern measurements for a size 48:
Bust:  39 1/2
Waist:  35
Length is 22 1/2"

When I make it again I may add a couple of inches to the length and see how it looks.

I may also try it in a winter color in a woven fabric with print, and sleeves.

I have one more shirt to finish this evening so I hope to post again this weekend.  I have also started the boring job of making 3 more pairs of these gray pants.  The lining is worn through and torn and I have managed to ruin 2 other pairs over the last 4 years.  Its been 4 years, they don't owe me anything!
Its my go to pattern from BWOF July 2009.

I really appreciate all of your kind comments and feedback, its helps keep the blog posting.

Great big apology -More MMM outfits *only 10 more days*



I'm so sorry

Last Friday I accidentally posted a rant when I meant to save for editing.  If I hurt someones feelings I sincerely apologize.  There are many people in the online sewing community that I have learned from and I really appreciate them taking the time to share their knowledge.  Its really easy to feel like you are having a private conversation, but on the Internet there is no such thing.

Back to sewing



Day 16: If my house ever catches fire, I'm grabbing this blouse on my way out.





Marfy 0692 top, McCalls skirt

This top is the free pattern 0692 from years ago in a Just Cavalli print that was way too expensive, but has become one of my great loves.  We all love some clothes more than others, admit it, you have your favorites too.  Its a MMM repeat of course, nobody noticed.Why are some participants so concerned about this?  Who doesn't love a bias cut silk charmeuse blouse. 

Silk charmeuse on the bias is one of my favorite home sewing accomplishments.  No secrets, no tips, just take your time, cut single layer and yes, its like trying to sew Jello.  I've tried starch and the tissue paper and some of the other things that you hear and its still a pain. But when you do finish it wraps around you like a warm hug from your mother.

Looks gorgeous, feels divine  so i forgive it and wear it forever.  Yes, I just serged the neckline and hem... only seamstresses would see that as unfinished.



Day 17:  Linen and Marfy wear forever. 

Marfy 9239 linen jacket from 2006 with new Burda jeans

I don't wear my pink safari jacket too often, but sometimes it just works.  Its from 2006 which was pre-blog, but my pattern review is on PR here and YES, it still buttons!

 I really do actually get something accomplished at the office once and awhile.  Besides accidentally publishing posts instead of just uploading pictures:  I love my desk, I only use half of it, so the wing is often used for cutting or taping patterns.  What you see in the lower left corner is Colette Jasmine downloaded and being taped.
Weekends are for jeans and simple jersey tops.  Don't go out much, mainly grocery shopping.  I accept the fact that you are dressed up enough for WalMart as long as you wear shoes.

I spent my weekend working on a Style Arc Patsy top, most of that was spent discussing tension with my old White 534 serger.  I'll post on that later.

BWOF 02-2009 and new Burda jeans with the worst glare spot ever!

Day 20:  Come as you are...

I love the atmosphere at my job, I can dress up or down.  Either way nobody questions it.  The office dress code is "yes, you must dress in something, shoes are suggested".  On Monday its one of those new pairs of jeans in dark blue denim from EOS, stashed for years, and an even older Burda magazine top.  Its 02-2009-125 that I seem to remember blogging somewhere.
Every outfit looks better with cool shoes, they can really dress up jeans.

 

Day 21:  Back to my old self

I love this Matthew Williamson dress from BurdaStyle 09-2012-134  yes, its a repeat, but who cares.  I am not a very prolific sewer and I have a weird neurosis about public dressing rooms so, I only have about 2 weeks worth of wearable work wardrobe. 

My next goal is to find a better place to photograph that doesn't involve a garage door or a trash can. 
But its so easy, I just set the camera on the bed of my truck and hit the timer.  The dark background is flattering, and I am not late for work!


Marfy 2286 lookin good!

Thanks to all the great advise from my sewing friends on facebook and PR, I could easily have a big heap of wasted money!

The quilting is fabulous, and the top stitching isn't bad.  My dear old elna doesn't have adjustable presser foot pressure or a walking foot so it often stretched the leather when it went through thick leather or around corners.  The walking foot handled the quilting with a few loose stitches, but it didn't pull or shift the leather.


For the quilting I decided on a nice 2 to 1 ratio that is lengthening instead of boxy.  I got my 2" and my 1" ruler and set the first piece of tape.  I used an old roll of masking tape being careful to not push it down too much.  It did stick in a couple of places and tear the facing off the skin, but not badly. I laid the tape edge to edge and held the layers (hair canvas from Pam Erny and natural batting from Hancock's) together with big Conair hair clips.  As I stitched I really didn't have any pulling.

The advise that I got on facebook was so spot on!
As for the Janome 6500 with the walking foot, it walked through like BUTTER!  It was easy to keep on course and handled all the layers beautifully.   BTW, Gutterman heavy duty worked well when the Coats and Clark HD stuff frayed and split just like Clothingengineer said.
I stitched the lines between the tape, then I pulled off the tape and tied off the ends of the thread.  Then I laid the cross tape strips and stitched again.  This process was tedious and seemed to take forever!  And for the record, between the quilting and the topstitching I used all but about 12" of one spool of thread!
The work was totally worth it.
As for pattern alterations, I love Marfy.  Where else can  you take a pattern out of the envelope, set it on a very expensive pile of skin (that 5 sheep gave their lives for) and cut.  Honestly, if I had cut a muslin I wouldn't be nearly this done.  I made some usual alterations, I made the shoulders 1/2" more square.  I added 1" to the side seams, but sewed it back out.  Its a size 48 and I just needed to add a little bit to the hips because I want it loose so I can wear anything I want to under it.  I'll add an inch to the sleeves when I get the last skin tomorrow.


I also have a fabulous lining picked out of course!
Got it at High's last Sunday, its perfect!

BTW, I have so much money in this, is there anyway to LoJack a garment?  I can just see me leaving this on the bus somewhere.

OK, I still need that last piece so that I can cut the sleeves and belt.  Roz should be picking it up for me today so I might have it bragging-worthy by Sunday for the Fashionista club.

Marfy meets lambskin

It all started last November.  OK, it was probably earlier than that, but it began in earnest in November. My absolute favorite garment of all time, my baby blue leather jacket from 2005 (or 6 or 7) has gone past 'a little tight' to 'just let it go' too small.  This picture is from about 2007.  It actually buttoned at that time.  I used a vintage (even at the time) pattern Vogue 1919 pattern (Pattern Review is here) I will spare you the gory details, but I made this before I knew that you weren't supposed to put bound buttonholes in leather with out written approval from congress and an edict from The Vatican.  They turned out pretty good, for something that I wasn't supposed to be able to do.

Still love it, really love it.

But its the time of year when a young girls thoughts wander through too many shopping sites and her feet wander through Nordstrom too frequently and she gets the wanderlust for a beautiful new motorcycle-esque fab jacket.
It helps that my favorite fabric retailer has so graciously assumed the duties of lambskin dealer...

My favorite to replace the blue is remarkably similar to the emerald that has been declared the color of the summer.

I also love the look of that super soft quilted leather.  Its a sure sign of my Kate Spade obsession.  I am determined to find a way to do this.

My first tip was to get a walking foot.  Since my dearest elna didn't have one (from 1977) I borrowed a machine from a dear friend across the hall at work.  Yep, thats just the way sewing enthusiasts roll...  Its a Janome 6500 with some kind of dual feed adjustable feed dog synch sewing magic going on.  It sews the leather quilting wonderfully.  It feeds evenly (my biggest concern) without bunching or skipping.

The results for this specific purpose are wonderful, but I wouldn't buy a $2,000 machine just for that.  It doesn't sew well through 4 layers, and not at all through 5.  When you think about it, this can be a problem in garment sewing.  When you sew on belt loops there are 4 layers in the loop so sewing it to 2 layers of waistband (or jacket seam) is out of the question as is a jeans hem with a flat felled out- seam.
Another problem with the Janome, it refuses to sew with heavy duty thread, it shreds it like crazy in about 6".  Vangie agrees so it isn't operator error.  I was hoping to do the quilting in a heavy duty thread that is half a shade lighter but I guess not.
Anyway, I'll post more later...

Pattern spoilage, New Look and Burda... And I'm the brave one?

You all know what a Marfy fanatic. I am, I can't help myself.

What is it about them that intimidates so?  Is it the fancy illustrations, the lack of instructions, or that fact that they don't pop out of a pattern drawer for $1.99 during a Sunday afternoon?

OK, I will admit, they do have a very narrow size range and I have been very fortunate to fall within that range.  The fact that they come one size to an envelope doesn't leave a lot for guesstimating, but it eliminates a lot of confusion too.  

I am trying to branch out, see what the fuss is and run with the in crowd. I do like my Jalie Sweetheart top so 87 reviews can't be wrong.

Two jersey wrap dress patterns come to mind, Marfy 2827 on the right and the ever-popular New Look 6097.  Who can forget all those fabulous reviews.!  I will admit it, I went out and bought it right after reading this blog post from Goodbye Valentino.  After all, I'm gonna look just like that, right?

I haven't sewn a  New Look in forever so I had no idea what I was missing.  I first noticed that I didn't have to paw through 4 different envelope size ranges.  This one comes with sizes 10 - 22 in one envelope!  So, the 11 pattern pieces are actually printed on two great big sheets of paper in various size groupings.

Are you kidding me???  All that time I saved not having to trace seam allowances was totally gobbled up sorting through different size iterations and groupings trying to remember if I was cutting a 16 or 18! Sometimes the pattern piece is sizes 10 - 14 - 20, and other times it was 10 - 16 - 22.  I know, I'm whining... but consistency would have been helpful!

And then to the instructions...  They actually weren't bad.  They made the usual pattern company mistake of putting in the sleeves after the side seams, but we all make that mistake once, right?  Thank you Peggy L for showing me the light on my first knit top reviewed here.

I can't believe that there are 4 pages of instructions for a super simple knit dress!

I am also working on Burda Style designer dress from September.  The style photo doesn't do it justice, its interesting lines scream for color blocking instead of being hidden in some wild print.

I did my pattern tracing while sitting at an office table during lunch hours.  I love sewing at lunch, it keeps me from eating too much and helps with the sewing progress.  It also starts some wonderful conversations with other seamstresses around the office.
Likes about the Burda:  it comes with complete lining and facing patterns.  I will admit, I wish Marfy included better 'extraneous' parts.  One thing that I miss:  pattern measurements like you get on Big 4.  These are easy to get on the well marked, single sized Marfy, but not on Burda.  I sized up from the 44 to about a 46 so that its 46 at the hips and 35 waist.  This is kind of confusing with that nested and scrambled pattern menagerie that is the Burda pattern sheet.  I would like to say that there was some calculated scientific method to it.  My mother said that I was bad about "meandering across the fabric," she had no idea.

Bottom line on pattern companies, I still like Marfy.  They are better marked and I prefer the efficient packaging.  Really, how many of those whole wardrobe patterns do you have where you have actually made more than one view?  You usually just buy it for the top or maybe the jacket, the rest of those pieces are just in the way.
I just love the efficiency.

Next, I will talk about those instructions and post pictures of that jersey dress which is almost done.

I promise, I will post pictures as soon as I can get some decent ones with a clean mirror or a better camera!