The purse for my inner child

 

Here's another purse from Schola Academy in Florence Italy. I'll outline some of the processes learned and guidance as well as the structure (think interfacing) that you learn about purse making.

Pattern Description: This is the purse that I made based on the chapter covering the side gusset extended inwards with the facing, and the drop down loose lining. There are tabs with D Rings for a strap on the sides, and the top flap is independent and stitched to the back with a magnet closure on the front. 

The purse is sized for a iPhone 13 Pro and charging battery. 

Also, a mandatory card pocket on the back so you can put cards etc without having to fish them out of the bottom even though technically, your hand does fit all the way to the bottom

The lining is sized to mostly fit between the side gusset pieces.

 I love the coloring of this stuff! Unfortunately I got the last two pelts available. 

Note, alligator skin is purchased by the centimeter at the widest part of the belly. This alligator was only 19 cm wide at the widest part, so I was restricted to this type of bag, or color blocking, so I cut the back of the back out of black suede.

I did everything I could to convince my teacher that you really don't want to line purses in black, but I didn't have anything else on hand to use. I have learned to work with it, still very happy with the bag. 

Main, Exterior Supplies Used: It is so fabulous, real alligator from Mark Staton in Lafayette Louisiana. This is gator skin that is dyed red (saturating) and has a black, removable dye sprayed on top. This is the pelt before I cut.

To treat the skin for construction, you first cut out the purse pieces. Then you cover yourself head to toe in plastic (trust me) then you wipe the black dye off with rubbing alcohol and let it dry. It's best to do this after cutting so you can best manage the color placement for your design.

Structure Supplies Used: Here's where it gets complicated. In Italian purse structure there are several different types of "interfacing" to use, much like we do in garments. Like in high level tailoring, you want rigidness in the middle, bendiness where you want to bend, and you don't want bulk in the seams. 

1) Microfiber - like fake suede that adds bulk and consistency 

    - add to the softer parts like gussets For sale here at Rock Mt Leather Supply.

2) Cardboard - varying weights, for the very stiffest and most rigid

    - only to stabilize both sides of the magnetic closure and behind the flap

3) Salpa - I'm not making that up. You can see it here at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply.

  - cardboard like, but instead of wood pulp in glue, its leather pulp in glue. Varying weights and highly flexible. a light weight form of this was glued to the gusset and facing strip as well as the top flat lining.

So, for this purse I spray glued microfiber to the front and back to add consistency and a little bulk. Then you trim the bulk out of the seam allowances so the seams are two layers together, but more consistent with the thickness of the rest of the bag. 

All stiffened and happy, ready for assembly. 

The white that you see is microfiber faux suede.

The bag bottom is in the middle with the salsa fused for bottom stiffness.

The silver circle at the top is the cardboard reinforcement that supports the closure on the bag front.

The bottom of the picture you see the stiffer black cardboard that reinforces where the top flap was sewn to the back and the threads are glued in place. Then the flap is reinforced under where the other side of the closure is.

#1 rule of purse making, keep the bulk out of the seams. I learned to do that by designing the lining with seams moved to between the seams of the shell. The lining is stitched to the gusset at the top but hangs freely between them. You can also see the card pocket stitched beneath the facing secured by reinforcement tape.

As for instructions, we received the diagram and you can the class example that she used to demonstrate the process. The side of the bag is quite nice.

Pattern design details I'll change next time:  According to the teacher, you make the side gusset, then sew the facing to the gusset and the purse lining is stitched to this at the top. The teacher has you make the lining only 4 mm narrower than the shell and smoosh it all together and stitch. I couldn't soundly smoosh (I'd added stiffness with the inside card pocket) it all together without the lining bowing, so I had to make the lining narrower and the gusset facing narrower.

Of course its lined: The lining is free hanging, or not sewn into the side gusset. I like this because it keeps little things from slipping into the creases! 

What I really like about the way this turned out! The side facing has a fab color accent, the red and black is such a fashion statement! My alligator skin hook up in Lafayette only had two of these pelts available and his tannery shut down during Covid, so the only other place you can get this is very expensive and far far away. But, I have one more purse in process.

Such a cool Dead Pool vibe here! The red spot in the middle of the flap, that's the gator's butt, so I'm finally cool with 8 year old boys! The Yamata machine has the free arm post that was absolutely necessary for the stitching of that side seam! Even with the free arm the foot was a little wide, next time I'll cut with a full cm seam allowance. I managed to restitch the place that wasn't holding by holding the purse to the inside and walking stitch by stitch as you can see here.