Vogue 1329 Fabric / pattern serendipity

Vogue 1329 'natural' pose

I bought this pattern the day it came out:
Vogue 1329
Kay Unger has some pretty neat and stylish designs that they aren't afraid to sell to home-sewers.  I have made a couple of her patterns and they have earned my trust.
This has been sitting in pergatory (pattern stash box under the ironing board) awaiting the perfect fabric.  Something with a little bit of stretch for comfort, but natural fibers for steamy summers.

Then one morning Roz posted this and the stars came into alignment!

58" wide, 97% cotton 3% lycra, 100% serendipity!

With matching black (even down to the fiber content) for the side panel.  I think I will use white cotton for the top part, and maybe extend the shoulder for a wider shoulder line.



Ta Da!

The only question remaining is the lining.  I have a bemberg addiction, but no stretch.  So, I am thinking of cutting it on the bias for more give.
I also need a secret, inseam pocket somewhere, or a welt on the side with the print.
I have pulled and measured the pattern pieces and what I came up with is within 1/2" of what is stated on the pattern.  Even though the description is stated as 'close fitting' there is close to the standard 4" of ease Bust, Waist and Hips.  That's fine, at least they admit it on the pattern measurements.

I could also go totally off the reservation and use gunmetal gray leather for the yoke.  Or, black and white plaid cut on the bias.
Do too many voices speaking at once turm a fashion statement into a fashion argument?

Seriously? -Colette Jasmine

I'm all about supporting the independents, really I am.
I will chose independent restaurants, fabric stores and grocery stores over giant corporations any day.

Jasmine

So naturally after my first Style Arc success I am moving on to Colette,  because Me-Made-May 2013 really showed their popularity around the world. On any given day, someone somewhere is wearing a Colette Sorbetto top.

They also sell patterns in pdf format (for $12 instead of $16) which suits my instant gratification compulsion just fine.  Besides, the Jasmine is just ME.

I printed and taped the pattern.  Then I checked the size chart and picked 14.
At this point a careful reading of the instructions shot.  Apparently some patterns still include seam allowances.  Go figure...

Jasmine / TNT comparison

So part of the hugeness is my fault.  Not all of it!

I compared their pattern to my favorite version of my favorite Marfy 0692 free pattern from forever ago and the difference is big!  Colette is very proud of their skinny ease (I read that somewhere on their website, can't find it again), but when I measured the actual pattern (even without the SA's) I came up with 4"!  The armhole is substantially lower then my TNT.  Their is no way that the picture shown above follows the true pattern ease.

Did you notice that the bust, waist and hips aren't marked?

Jasmine facings

There are some other issues as well.  I noticed in some of the reviews that the contrast neck doesn't fit well and a dart was needed.  The back neckline pattern is used for the tie, and it really doesn't look right.  The top is on the bias and the facing is not, but that doesn't really explain this poor fit.

I like the fabric, don't love it, but it seems to fit the pattern.  SO, if I can't get it to work its a lesson learned.  But, its a nice concept, pretty picture.
I'm getting help from my fitting buddy Diane tomorrow so I'll post more pics.

Until then I have about 3 other projects going on so, on to the next.

I also got my birthday present in the mail today.  I'm going to learn French by Rosetta Stone!
Speaking of birthday... I have to finish 20.5 hours of Continuing Professional Education by the end of the month in order to maintain my license to count.  Yay me!  Texas Board of Public Accounting, ruining birthdays state wide!