Thursday, September 26, 2013

Marfy Gold 9462, Wardrobe piece 3

Marfy 9462 circa 2005

Change of plans for the fall wardrobe!
I found this pattern in my stash while organizing patterns this summer.
LOVE LOVE LOVE!  Especially in yummy 4 ply silk from SMF

This is so 'me'.  It reminds me of blouse 1903 which is lovely and slimming, but not so practical.  The sleeves don't fit well under a jacket, and they make it a bit dressy for office days.  The fabric is also very light weight and flowy (which is perfect for this pattern) but I'm always afraid that I will spill something on it.

Marfy 1903 in Badgley Mishka print
So, 1903 doesn't leave the closet as often as it deserves and I hope to incorporate some of the wonderful things from it into 9462.
What I am proposing now is a harmonious marriage between 1903 and 9462.
9462 has a collar which makes it office worthy, but I will extend the length to match 1903.  Another change that I will make is to have it close with a side zip.  Anne the Clothing Engineer made a very lovely blouse from this pattern and used a side zip instead of buttons and a tie.  What a genius solution!  Why didn't I think of that?  This will allow the blouse to be a little more fitted and more secure.

You could put the right collar on a tank top and make it look like professional attire.

The length of 9462 come only 1/2" below the waist at 17 1/2" which is 4" too short.
It is also EXTREMELY fitted throough the waist to match the design. 

Marfy 1903
9462 Size 46:
B:  39.5"  ~ 1 1/2" of easeW:  30"  ~ no ease!
Back Length:  17 1/2" to the hem
Bust length:  11 1/2"

1903 Size 44:
B:  39" ~ 1" of ease
W:  32 1/2" ~ 4" of ease
Back Length:  21 1/2" to the hem
Bust Length:  10 1/2"

The front and back of both patterns compare very closely making it easy to meld the length from 1903 with the neckine and collar of 9462.

Comparison of 1903 (longer) and 9462 (shorter)
 Notice how much more fitted the front of 9462 is with the dart that is almost 2 1/2"!  I also notice how closely matched the armscye and shoulder line are!

I am unsure of the sleeves though, what sleeve design works well with 4 ply crepe that isn't long!  Full length sleeves aren't necessary in a climate that has high temperatures in the 60's all winter.

Marfy 2280
The 4th piece of my wardrobe plan is a leather and wool skirt in all black which I have been trying to document.  But as you can imagine, evening pics of black leather on black fabric look like the abyss.  I am using my favorite skirt pattern 2280.
I am making the side panels and waist band out of  black leather and the front and back centers and pleats (both are one pattern piece in an 'L' shape) out of black wool twill.
Sewing leather to fabric has turned out to be so easy.  You don't use pins, you use binder clips to hold the fabric and the leather together.  You sew with a leather needle.

Monday, September 23, 2013

Marfy 2314 tie-neck blouse, wardrobe piece 2

Must finish one before starting another...  Is much harder than I thought.
Scary September is hard!  I vowed to challenge myself to finish SOMETHING before starting anything new and I have been doing fairly well.
Marfy 2314 front

The pants are still in a time out sitting in the corner.  I need to spend some quality time with them and not rush.  I won't take too long, 3 pairs of pants with lining makes quite a pile.

I am very happy to say that I am done with the blouse!
There is Marfy Alchemy totally at work here!
Ugh!  Thank goodness for the alchemy, I don't look an ounce over 180 lbs *grimace*.  Its funny how it takes 6 months of work to shed a few, but they pop right back up in a matter of weeks.
Getting old sucks!  Oh well, back to the diet and exercise!

The pattern is a size 46.  It measures Bust 40 1/2", Waist 35 1/2" and about 22" length.  The length to the bust point is 10 3/4" and the back waist length is 17 1/4"

I do love the pattern, it went together like a breeze.  The fabric is a silk charmeuse-like jacquard from Fine Fabrics during one of her wonderful 50% off sales.  Those lovely polka dots are all the rage this year, but I'm not sure its really me.  The dots seem a bit cute-sy.  But, I think that it works overall.

Marfy 2314 back
I chose the shorter, bracelet length sleeves over the long sleeves, they really need a contrasting fabric to accent the inset.  The sleeve length is perfect for my drafty office, even though my arms are a little heavier than I had planned *grimace*.  Lately I have adjusted for a 15 1/2" sleeve, this one is a bit tight so it looks like I have grown and need to shrink!

I did shorten the tie by and inch and make it narrower by two inches.  I also cut several inches off one end so that it can be tied like a men's tie knot instead of a dreadful bow. It works best with the light weight satin or chiffon as suggested, if you are making it in anything heavier you might want to make it narrower.

Recommended fabric aside, this would be very cute when done completely tongue in cheek with a menswear cotton shirting, a collar and men's tie fabric.  Hmmm, an idea for up-cycling from thrift stores perhaps...

I know that just about every pattern company now has a version of this blouse, but I trust Marfy.  I have the Syle Arc pattern, and I started to compare the two at work at lunch, but the HUGE pattern paper was too big for my desk.  I really appreciate the conciseness of Marfy's pre-cut, single size pieces!

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