Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Marfy 2758 facing question

OK, I have made it to the top and facing of this wonderful dress and I now have to figure out how to finish the neckline.

I have never worked on a pleated neck top that didn't have a band around it so I have been stumped.

I foolishly cut a self fabric full facing, not thinking it through.  I think its going to be too bulky and not turn correctly.
Here is the pattern pictured with the center front and side front of the dress.

There is actually a stitch line that extends down the pleat about and inch into the top, so the pleat is stitched and reinforced. 
The normal way of finishing a neckline would be to stitch the facing to the top all the way around the neckline, then I would have to fold in and stitch the pleat.  I think this will make it too bulky at the neckline.  If I fold and sew the pleat into the lining and top separately then sew them together I don't think it will lay right. 

I think what I am going to end up doing is underlining the entire top with lining, then cutting a facing strip (about 1 1/2" or so) with the pleat folded out of the pattern.  Then serge the inside edge of the facing and use that to finish the neckline.  Using this method I could even finish the sleeve hem by sewing the shoulder seam first, then sewing the underlining to the top and turning it right side out (I had just planned on having having to use a bias strip on the whole edge), THEN sewing in the pleat in both layers treated as one.  Then I could sew on the facing and I would have to hand sew the outer edge of the facing to the lining without letting the pleat get too messy.

OK, what are the odds that I still remember this when I get home tonight?  00.00000

So, I'm glad I wrote it down.
This is one of those occasions when it would be nice to have instructions, but figuring it out myself is half the fun of Marfy!

If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears.

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

My first order for Marfy 2012

Finally, the picture that I saved to my work computer is available for upload.  I was out sick yesterday with sinus problems, but feeling better today.  I compiled this with Snag it (love it!) using mostly screen shots captured from the Marfy and Vogue websites.

There were several that I liked that didn't make the cut:

2845 is really cute, and would be fabulously fun to make.  But where on earth would I wear it, and it the strapless thing wouldn't look good on me.  It might make a cute skirt with just the bottom, but that would be expensive and a lot of work.

2747 is another one I like this, you could make it look stunning in a nice, floaty rayon.  Especially in a black and white print with black trim.  But it looks like a lot of work to put those bands on there, then sew it.

I did make some progress on 2758 yesterday.  I got the pockets in to my satisfaction.  Unfortunately the tweed doesn't photograph details well so I will have to figure out a better way to get pictures.

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Happy Day

Hey, it's me again.
I finally got a break from the office (don't get me wrong, I love my job) and a new laptop.  Its much easier to write when all the keys work.
After much deliberation and questioning I decided to drink the Koolaid and get an Apple.  Seriously, Apple lovers seem to be quite committed.  So far I am liking it.  Now, if only I could get a better blogging program.  If anyone has any suggestions, I am open.  This is my first attempt at a post in awhile, I'll see if I can't get it to look right without pulling my hair out.

I actually have been sewing some.  I am working on my first 2012 Marfy from the new catalog!
I absolutely fell in love with this dress the first time I opened the catalog.  The pleats at the neckline draw the eye upward while the pleated pockets seem flattering for those of us without much of a waist.  I like the look of the stripes, but I wasn't sure how it would look in pinstripes.

I chose a navy and cream silk and wool that I picked up at EOS a few years back.  The tricky part is that its only 45" so it took almost 3 yards.  (I cut it with 2" seams on the sides)  The biggest size is a 46 so I will probably need every inch.  I had planned to use blue for the top but I found the perfect bright silver remnant at High's

I took this shot to show how well the pattern matches up and to remind myself of the layout.

The side front has the inside pocket bag included, and the hip pocket pleats are folded in to show the matching symbols.  If I had had any brains I would have stopped here and used this for my lining pattern. I didn't though, so my lining matches the fabric all too well.  Now I will have to trim and sew to get it to work without too much bulk.
One more picture because it so much easier now:

This is my new helper Chevy.  He loves to eat pins and chew on that crunchy pattern paper.

Now, I must get back to sewing so that I will have more to talk about.
Later, more Marfy patterns and sewing excitement.
Thank you for your patience in my time away.  If I had any idea that getting a Mac would make blogging this easy I would have taken the plunge last fall!

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