Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Marfy 2758 facing question

OK, I have made it to the top and facing of this wonderful dress and I now have to figure out how to finish the neckline.

I have never worked on a pleated neck top that didn't have a band around it so I have been stumped.

I foolishly cut a self fabric full facing, not thinking it through.  I think its going to be too bulky and not turn correctly.
Here is the pattern pictured with the center front and side front of the dress.

There is actually a stitch line that extends down the pleat about and inch into the top, so the pleat is stitched and reinforced. 
The normal way of finishing a neckline would be to stitch the facing to the top all the way around the neckline, then I would have to fold in and stitch the pleat.  I think this will make it too bulky at the neckline.  If I fold and sew the pleat into the lining and top separately then sew them together I don't think it will lay right. 

I think what I am going to end up doing is underlining the entire top with lining, then cutting a facing strip (about 1 1/2" or so) with the pleat folded out of the pattern.  Then serge the inside edge of the facing and use that to finish the neckline.  Using this method I could even finish the sleeve hem by sewing the shoulder seam first, then sewing the underlining to the top and turning it right side out (I had just planned on having having to use a bias strip on the whole edge), THEN sewing in the pleat in both layers treated as one.  Then I could sew on the facing and I would have to hand sew the outer edge of the facing to the lining without letting the pleat get too messy.

OK, what are the odds that I still remember this when I get home tonight?  00.00000

So, I'm glad I wrote it down.
This is one of those occasions when it would be nice to have instructions, but figuring it out myself is half the fun of Marfy!

If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears.


  1. I think that should work. I think you could also cut the same garment pieces in a very lightweight lawn (to reduce bulk) and sew the shoulder seam in the garment fabric then do the same with the lawn lining. I think you can then lie them on of each other right sides together and sew the neckline edge seams because I think it will turn through the shoulders. Then you can finish the armhole edges by putting the unit right sides together and sewing the seam that forms the armhole of the unit, sewing along the garment, over the shoulder seam and back down the other side again. Like you would a vest I think. Its very difficult to explain in words, you have your unit right way out so it doesn't have to be turned through again, and pull the seam allowance out onto the bed of the machine to sew it and go up and over and back down the other side in one seam. Then you can press it all neatly and maybe pickstitch the two layers together invisibly near the pleat, pleat it up and I think its sorted out. However, I've not had a coffe yet so this could all be complete drivel.

  2. Great ideas guys, thanks. I tried it on and it looks like a sack! Part of the problem is the front part of the top is basically on the bias so it hangs and doesn't hold the pleat, which would be helped by organza underlining to hold the shape. Sewing the top like an un hemmed vest would work to close the edge on both the shoulder and the neckline.
    I'll see how much progress I make on this today, maybe post pictures this evening.


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