The purse for my inner child

 

Here's another purse from Schola Academy in Florence Italy. I'll outline some of the processes learned and guidance as well as the structure (think interfacing) that you learn about purse making.

Pattern Description: This is the purse that I made based on the chapter covering the side gusset extended inwards with the facing, and the drop down loose lining. There are tabs with D Rings for a strap on the sides, and the top flap is independent and stitched to the back with a magnet closure on the front. 

The purse is sized for a iPhone 13 Pro and charging battery. 

Also, a mandatory card pocket on the back so you can put cards etc without having to fish them out of the bottom even though technically, your hand does fit all the way to the bottom

The lining is sized to mostly fit between the side gusset pieces.

 I love the coloring of this stuff! Unfortunately I got the last two pelts available. 

Note, alligator skin is purchased by the centimeter at the widest part of the belly. This alligator was only 19 cm wide at the widest part, so I was restricted to this type of bag, or color blocking, so I cut the back of the back out of black suede.

I did everything I could to convince my teacher that you really don't want to line purses in black, but I didn't have anything else on hand to use. I have learned to work with it, still very happy with the bag. 

Main, Exterior Supplies Used: It is so fabulous, real alligator from Mark Staton in Lafayette Louisiana. This is gator skin that is dyed red (saturating) and has a black, removable dye sprayed on top. This is the pelt before I cut.

To treat the skin for construction, you first cut out the purse pieces. Then you cover yourself head to toe in plastic (trust me) then you wipe the black dye off with rubbing alcohol and let it dry. It's best to do this after cutting so you can best manage the color placement for your design.

Structure Supplies Used: Here's where it gets complicated. In Italian purse structure there are several different types of "interfacing" to use, much like we do in garments. Like in high level tailoring, you want rigidness in the middle, bendiness where you want to bend, and you don't want bulk in the seams. 

1) Microfiber - like fake suede that adds bulk and consistency 

    - add to the softer parts like gussets For sale here at Rock Mt Leather Supply.

2) Cardboard - varying weights, for the very stiffest and most rigid

    - only to stabilize both sides of the magnetic closure and behind the flap

3) Salpa - I'm not making that up. You can see it here at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply.

  - cardboard like, but instead of wood pulp in glue, its leather pulp in glue. Varying weights and highly flexible. a light weight form of this was glued to the gusset and facing strip as well as the top flat lining.

So, for this purse I spray glued microfiber to the front and back to add consistency and a little bulk. Then you trim the bulk out of the seam allowances so the seams are two layers together, but more consistent with the thickness of the rest of the bag. 

All stiffened and happy, ready for assembly. 

The white that you see is microfiber faux suede.

The bag bottom is in the middle with the salsa fused for bottom stiffness.

The silver circle at the top is the cardboard reinforcement that supports the closure on the bag front.

The bottom of the picture you see the stiffer black cardboard that reinforces where the top flap was sewn to the back and the threads are glued in place. Then the flap is reinforced under where the other side of the closure is.

#1 rule of purse making, keep the bulk out of the seams. I learned to do that by designing the lining with seams moved to between the seams of the shell. The lining is stitched to the gusset at the top but hangs freely between them. You can also see the card pocket stitched beneath the facing secured by reinforcement tape.

As for instructions, we received the diagram and you can the class example that she used to demonstrate the process. The side of the bag is quite nice.

Pattern design details I'll change next time:  According to the teacher, you make the side gusset, then sew the facing to the gusset and the purse lining is stitched to this at the top. The teacher has you make the lining only 4 mm narrower than the shell and smoosh it all together and stitch. I couldn't soundly smoosh (I'd added stiffness with the inside card pocket) it all together without the lining bowing, so I had to make the lining narrower and the gusset facing narrower.

Of course its lined: The lining is free hanging, or not sewn into the side gusset. I like this because it keeps little things from slipping into the creases! 

What I really like about the way this turned out! The side facing has a fab color accent, the red and black is such a fashion statement! My alligator skin hook up in Lafayette only had two of these pelts available and his tannery shut down during Covid, so the only other place you can get this is very expensive and far far away. But, I have one more purse in process.

Such a cool Dead Pool vibe here! The red spot in the middle of the flap, that's the gator's butt, so I'm finally cool with 8 year old boys! The Yamata machine has the free arm post that was absolutely necessary for the stitching of that side seam! Even with the free arm the foot was a little wide, next time I'll cut with a full cm seam allowance. I managed to restitch the place that wasn't holding by holding the purse to the inside and walking stitch by stitch as you can see here.

Midlife Diversion - THAT purse

Purse making photos, popping here because Pattern Review doesn't let me upload TBs of pics, go figure.

If you're gonna make it, make it good!

Marfy Monthly Challenge -February

Marfy 1642 from 2008

Oh Marfy I have missed you so...
Life's been busy with job from hell, world travels and remodeling. I'll provide more details on that later.
I've reorganized my sewing spaces and now I'm ready to get some sewing done.

I'm back to sewing due in large part to challenges from SewToFit.

SewToFit Marfy Challenge on YouTube

The first Saturday of each month we are live on YouTube to reveal and discuss our Marfy make from the previous month as well as have a live poll to chose the patterns for the next month.

I also snuck in a little fit help from Ms Sew To Fit, Andrea is my Fit Goddess! She did the fit for my jeans pattern so she's the one I go to for perfection.

The challenge for February was blouses so we picked this super versatile blouse from 2008.

I like the versatility of this blouse from dressy casual to professional and perfect for Houston's climate.

Lovable Details:

• CELL PHONE WORTHY POCKETS!
• Fabulous lapels, so chic
• Curvy shoulders for a broad shoulder angle
• Breezy sleeveless for long hot summer

This pattern is available on the Marfy website here in sizes 42, 44, and 46. I ordered a 46.

Marfy 2762

This pattern measurements for this 46:

• Bust: 39"
• Waist: 34"
• Hips: 44 1/2"

I started my fitting process by comparing the fit to another favorite, similar silhouette Marfy 2762 blogged here. Currently its about 2" too small.  I lay the pieces for 1642 on the old jacket and matched the seams and confirmed the sizing,  I decided to add an inch to the length above the waist.

You can see from the layout of the pattern below how well the details match the pattern sketch provided. The lines of the waist seam and the upper and lower side front and back.

I planned my construction steps and made sure to mark the pattern number and size on each pattern piece (they don't come with these marked).

Marfy 1642 pinned with Marfy 2762

The gorgeous lapis fashion fabric is 100% linen from Sew Much Fabric. Its described as dress/jacket weight and she has it in ta wide range of vibrant colors that are perfect for the transition to spring.

The jacket is unlined and the seams serged for time.
I could've done a Hong Kong finish, but in cleaning my sewing room out I found so many, MANY projects 90% done that I out grew before finishing and I'm really in the mod to get stuff done and wear it!

I used fusible weft from Fashion Sewing Supply on the under collar and front facing. I usually use fusible interfacing on the entire body of a linen jacket, but I think this is crisp enough to wear well without it or lining.




I love this pattern, the matching points are well marked and the construction is much more simple than it looks.

Basically you sew the side tops together with their side bottoms, then join them with the center front and center back pieces.  Even the center front easily sews straight down to that pocket lining making the perfect fabulous pocket.

I cut the upper collar on the bias without noticing that the instructions stamped on the pattern. I'm an absent minded rebel like that.

I can't wait to sew this again. I want to do it in a proper suiting fabric with the topstitching trim.
If I use anything wool I'll have to draft a lining for it and figure out how to finish those armholes...

Next month its jackets and the viewers chose 5062, so more on that next post.

More gratuitous pics courtesy of Andrea SewToFit

Marfy 1642 back seams lookin good

Marfy 1642 pockets

Marfy 1642 front seaming detail shot

To those who love someone who smokes

Christmas party, 2006

Pardon the non-sewing-related rant:

My dear husband of 22 years and 51 weeks passed away on Friday.
He went to the hospital for an angiogram on May 23, had a quadruple bypass less than 24 hours later.  The bypass was successful, his heart was recovering.  He had been a heavy smoker for 50 years and his lungs never recovered.  They found 2 spots, one on the outside of his lungs was an infection.  The one on the inside of his lungs was biopsied 3 weeks later and found to be malignant.
His lungs wouldn't function and he had been in a chemically induced coma for almost 3 weeks.

On June 17th, his heart gave out and he passed away.

After 22 years and 51 weeks of marriage to a smoker, I have some observations for those who love someone who smokes.

Company party in Galveston, TX 2008

You can't nag them into stopping.  Don't marry someone thinking you will change them.  You will simply change them into your EX.

If you fight it, you will not win.  The dependent relationship with cigarettes is longer and more ingrained than the relationship with you.

They won't want to exercise, this increases the chances of diabetes and heart disease.

Brace yourself for a long fight if anything else goes wrong.  They might not die of lung cancer.  But, it makes EVERYTHING else that goes wrong with their body more difficult.

Control the second hand smoke.  If they smoke in the house keep your clothes and fabric covered.  I was once warned of this by a recruiter when looking for work.

2012 with DIL and son in Austin

Find the good hospital you're probably going to need it.   Smoking increases your odds of many, many diseases including several cancers like bladder, throat and mouth cancer as well as circulatory problems and heart problems.

Get to know nurses, they are wonderful people and the good ones have more influence over the Dr's than you would think.  They will also talk to you straight and share more information.

The things that modern medicine can do for the heart are amazing!  They can crack your chest open and redo the entrance ramps, replace the valves and even replace it with a little mechanical heart.
The options for lungs are limited.  The tissue is special and can not be replaced once it is destroyed.  It absorbs stuff in the air around you and sends it right into your body so take care what you put in your lungs.

June 26, 1993

That being said, I do not regret going along for the ride.  I loved him so much.  He was such a smart man who always chose to do right and being with him taught me so much.  He sharpened my sense of humor and challenged me to grow and become what I am today.  He supported me when I was weak, laughed and cried with me.

He had been taken off of the sedatives, pain killers and paralytics after almost three weeks.  He couldn't talk with the tracheostomy and respirator, but his face was expressive.  The first things to come to life were his eyebrows and he could speak volumes without making a sound.  He interacted with me Friday morning.  I told him about my job and my day, he was so happy to hear from me and I knew that he loved me.  Two hours later I got the phone call at the office that he was in cardiac arrest.  When I got to the hospital the doctor explained they weren't able to revive him and the lab tests were positive for cancer.  I don't know if he would have made it through cancer treatments, but it would have been excruciating.  He got to go on a high note, still working, still loved and still choosing and that would have been his preference.

If you are willing to wrap your heart around someone, you have to love strong enough to let them make their own decisions.  You have to be able to accept letting go.

Thoughts, sewing and the interview look

Just hire me already, in Marfy 2745

If you've ever been through the job interview process you'll understand when I say that its less an equation and more like a blind date. I've been on both sides of the interview desk and its scary.  I've been on a hiring panel that passed on a candidate because she chewed her nails.

I've been passed over because I didn't take it seriously, and passed on another because I was too serious and didn't seem fun to work with.  I've also scored a 3rd interview because I used the word whom correctly in a sentence, go figure.

Sometimes you just gotta use an old meme

As an interviewee I know what is expected of me:

• Be on time
• Present professionally
• Know the job 
• Know the company
• Know the interviewer

Three or four hours of research and prep puts a kink in your to-do list so I haven't completed much sewing.

The last question my Friday interviewer asked me was if I was enjoying my time off.  I had to giggle a little when I said, "Some just aren't meant to be housewives" She rolled her eyes and gave me a high five.  I don't assume that meant that I was hired.
What do you say to that?

That being said, I have been sewing.  I love my new Marfy 2745 jacket seen above.  I've completed it to wearable and I will write a full post.  I've also made great progress filling the need for denim.  I have had enlisted expert fitting help for 6 pairs which are 90% done.  I also have a lovely dress which is 85% done.

Marfy 3024 with its asymmetrical front and perfect pockets

And then there is this jacket (Marfy 3024, check my Pintrest page) that I worked with for my Suzanne Khalje sewing class last week.

Its coming along nicely, here are the pockets.

I asked her if she had a secret method for perfect, quick welt pockets.  How many Hail Mary's does she do?

"I've found that I'm too busy basting carefully, that  works for me"

That, basting carefully did for well for me!
The lips are good and even.
I can't wait to tell you more!

How can you say no to that face?

I've also got a new helper.  Kritter showed up in the yard on July 4th.  We weren't exactly looking for another cat, but she was looking for new people, so we have a new cat.

Kritter knows right where to get the most attention

She's a handful.  Sweet when she wants to be, but her favorite hobbies seems to be pushing limits and testing boundaries.

She sure is cute!

90 MPH to nothing -and a new Marfy

Can I share a secret?
I take my job way too seriously...

In March I decided to give up the familiar work with great coworkers and headed to a new job back in the suburbs.  The terrific news is, I no longer worked 70 - 80 hours a week or spent 2 hours a day in traffic!

Marfy 3698, in my old new office

I got to downshift from 90 mph to 60 mph.

I liked the job, the company, and the 50 hour work week. Its business casual, how can you not love that!

On May 29th I was informed that the due to the downturn in oil and gas drilling, my services were no longer required...

Have you ever slammed on the brakes doing 60 mph?

Free with 2015 catalog

So, more on being unemployed later...

You're really here for the new Marfy, right…

With my new found sewing time I've finally finished one thing!

So I made it a good thing!  I love this blouse!  Its a free pattern with the 2015 catalog.

Bias layout -Isn't that fabric gorgeous!!!

This silk CDC is from an Australian store called Tessuti, their online store is here and they get the most stunning digital print silks.  If you look closely you can tell that its a panel, there is a ;one where the pattern mirrors.

It is very simple pattern, a front and a back.

This is 138 cms wide and I got 1.25 meters which was (almost) perfect, with a little creativity.

Can you see the seam?

I had to finagle it and it wouldn't quite fit so I decided to added a seam across the back from the neckline to the armhole.

You don't even notice it for the gorgeous print.  Here you can also see the line between the design panels.

Rose Gathering, Tessuti

Here is the fabric picture from Tessuti.

Good think I've been stashing fabric.

Well, tomorrow is Monday of week 2.

I'm going to keep my sanity and keep my days on track.  I have a to-do list and I keep myself to it.

Everyday I vow to:

• Clean something (like my car or a closet)
• Apply for something (and harass a recruiter)
• Sew something

The forces of EEEVIILLL come in many forms

Its weird, I haven't been unemployed for more than 2 weeks since umm, 2009 I guess.  Ironically the 6 month temp job lasted for 4 years, the supposed career position lasted 3 months.

My biggest struggle is against the supreme dark forces that rule the house.  

The over-stuffed recliner, soft-purry-kitty combination creates a wormhole in the space time continuum that is inescapable and makes time fast forward.  I could doze to the 7AM news and awaken to Jerry Springer 4 hours later.

The great soft-purry one even tries to hijack sewing.  Although she prefers to rest on white fabrics where she looks pretties, she will settle for whatever interrupts me the most.

Oh, I need more coffee.
I could research, apply, follow up and setup meetings
Or I could watch sewing tutorials, and shop...

So, when you roll yourself out of bed and drag yourself through Monday morning traffic think of me.  I'm on the back porch with no shoes picking through job listings, sipping coffee, watching birds, checking out Instagram and feeling sorry for all those people stuck in traffic.

Unemployment happens, you must prepare years in advance.  Prepare with conservative purchases of big things and hoarding the necessities like good scissors, lots of coffee, lots of sewing projects and supplies.

First I'm working on some every day casual clothes.  I know that Marfy can appear to be a little too 'guest of the wedding' but it also works for 'guest of the grocery store' and you're not going to have an interview day.  Some days you must research and network at a baseball game or a nail salon.  You never know where you will make great contacts and meet the perfect controller looking for the perfect assistant controller…

Up next, I'll post some work wear!

Oh, how I've missed thee, let me count the ways...

With Rhonda and Andrea at High Fashion

Oh, I've missed you too sweet sewing and sweet blog friends.

I've been busy, no lack of inspiration
Gosh how long has it been.  Before Susan Khalje class?
Oh my, I've got some catching up to do.

I had brunch and fabric shopping with my adorable friends Rhonda and Andrea.  I don't remember the day, but it was my last day off.  What a wonderful way to spend a Sunday!  Thank you so much ladies, discussions of fabric and patterns and fitting were fun.  How is that wedding dress coming Andrea?

Marfy 3089

But for now, a weekend off.  I have one problem client from work who's filing hangs like a dangling participle.  I'll worry about that on Monday.

I have a shirt started.  Its short sleeved.  Don't laugh, that's totally doable in Houston.  It may only get up to 50, but here in the office they crank the space heaters to 75 so sweaters are absolutely out of the question.

The pattern calls for stretch knit, but the CDC has some give and I plan on putting an invisible zipper down the side.

My fabric is navy floral CDC from Tessuti.  The colors are mesmerizing and the details are astonishing.  The front drape is an overlay.

Magic Dragonfly CDC

But first, cleaning and a short work out.  I miss the gym almost as much as sewing.  For supper, soup's in the crockpot and fresh salad for my cholesterol screening this month.

I had a life, then my job ate it.
Now I'm fighting back.

I've missed you!

More on the shirt and pattern later, plus a gathering of the UFO's.

Marfy 3400 -that's OK, I meant to do that

How many times have you seen a RTW garment and you see something that you swear was an accident.  I mean like the exposed zipper.  There is no way that was on purpose the first time.

Marfy 3400

Exposed seams were the trend for awhile.  It looked wrong side out to me.

Or the center front seam on a sheath dress?  I look at that and think "Huh, made it too wide"

Color blocking, "Somebody didn't buy enough fabric"

WELLLL, ask me how I know.

The white neck band… Yep, not in the pattern.  Looks nice though, it kind of draws the design of the fabric together.  With the little slit in the neck back it looks absolutely deliberate.

I got in a hurry, worked in a poorly lit room and cut my facing out of my shirt front.

That's OK, I can make a design element…
For $XX/yard silk charmeuse I can turn lots of things into a design element.  It beats a really expensive pajama top.

in pieces!

This is a gorgeous design border print from Emma One Sock.  The picture even doesn't do the color justice.  I have never seen a cobalt blue this saturated.
I cut the back on the bias.  I'm so in love with bias cut silk charmeuse right now!


I bought several yards, I could have recut or worked around.  Or, I could save it and have enough left over for a way too awesome jacket lining.


I sewed this in brief intervals while working overtime.  OK, maybe I should be more focused and not stop and start so often.  Its still a very satisfying relatively instant gratification project.

Everyone at work Fawned over it.  Its funny how people pass over the hours spent on a meticulously tailored jacket or a perfectly fitted pair of jeans that you spent years developing, but they absolutely adore a super easy casual top.  Nobody even cared about the french seams, I had them in love at the matched seams...

As for the front band, it isn't absolutely perfectly straight, or even or maybe even perfectly symmetrical.
I like to think of it as artistic.
After all, when I sewed on the front band I was convinced that I was working on a pajama top, or something for grocery shopping on saturdays.


As for more sewing projects, I'm actually working on a muslin!  Its for Susan Khalje class next week.  I'm also working on a skirt.  Marfy 2531 skirt.  The pattern is pinned here.

Cross one off my bucket list! I finished the Wardrobe Contest on PR.com

It was sooo close!  I really was working until almost midnight on July 31.
The contest is open to vote for the winner here.  You really should check it out, there are thirty different outfits created.  Voting is only open to members only, but its fun to look at what wonderful outfits people come up with in one short month.

Marfy 2762 and McCall's 6706

Top 1, the adorable white jacket in the first pic was almost my downfall.  Its Marfy 2762 which I have made before.  This should have made it easy.  I barely blogged here, I need to write a tutorial.
Did You Really Sew That blog has a great tutorial here.  I disagree about the sleeve, she says it will never work to her satisfaction as drafted.  I think that part of the charm is the overlapping sleeve so I'm willing to put up with the overlap and topstitch, more on that later.

The skirt is McCall's 6706.  I get compliments, but I'm still not fully secure.  I'll wear it though, especially with the jacket.

Belinni and Manhattan 

Skirt 2 has a completely different silhouette, Capital Chic's Manhattan.  This is a unique color blocked pencil skirt with an asymmetrical, blocked hem and get this, no darts.  All the shaping (and there is plenty of shaping) is in the front seam, side seams and center back seam.  Yes, there is shaping in the center back seam and it works.

Here, it needs more pressing.
And, a smile on my face.  I've been working for 12 days straight and I haven't been home before dark since mid July.  So, before leaving for work this morning I twisted my husband's arm and got him to help me with pics.  He was impatient and I'm just plain tired.  That's OK, I finished the wardrobe and love the pieces.

Marfy 2762 and dress 3339

Did I mention that I love this jacket?

I think I'm gonna take it in at the waist a little, maybe add pockets.  I meant to, ran out of time figuring out how to put the rest together.  Is it wrong to run out of time in a timed contest and go back and re-finish it later?  I re-work and do that all the time.  I've straight stitched a hem at 6AM because I was too lazy to wait for the cleaners to open. Am I the only one who makes long sleeved shirts only to shorten them in the spring?

It could be a couple of inches shorter too, not sure.

I added an extra inch to each side of the center front and added buttons instead of a zipper.

Last time I just partially lined it, this time its fully lined in crystal white-ish Bemberg.

This really does require a full blog post.  I would say T-U-T-E but I swore I never would.  I'm just not the tutorial kind.

I will try to describe the construction.  I sewed the final button on at midnight so some of the details are fuzzy as were some of the pictures.

There was much ripping and gnashing of teeth.

Now, I must prepare for Fasionista's final knit class on Monday night.

Oh look, Its a McCall's! 6706 skirt.

McCall's 6706, Belinni top

I'm not totally a pattern snob.
Well, yes I am.  But...
I find a gem once and awhile.

Just often enough to remind me why I love my Dear Marfy!  I won't bore you with another rant, you can see it all here in a previous New Look post.  OK, OK, basically, too many pattern pieces, too many sizes and where did I put those instructions?  A lining and a pocket are essential, so I had to improvise those.  I also added 4" to the waist which normally wouldn't be a problem, but it totally threw off the pleats.

I do think that only having 4 box pleats makes it a little more slimming than gathering would be.

This looks so nice all styled up.  When I looked at it in the mirror last night I was wearing a T shirt and socks with tenny kickers and I just looked fat.  That is so easy to do, judge a garment prematurely.  I glanced at my reflection this morning and was very pleasantly surprised.

I still might take some of that fullness away from the hips by sewing down the pleats and trimming out the layers behind them, but for now I'm just happy to have ONE of my PR Wardrobe outfits done.

The fabric is a wonderfully SWISHY tropical weight wool that perfectly matches the Valentino polka dot blouse.  I mean really, REALLY matches it.  It is still available here and has a modest 2% lycra which gives it just enough give so I don't worry about stressing it.  It presses OK, almost like 100% wool so I never would have guessed that it had stretch.  This is the perfect tropical weight wool for dresses and skirts, it truly light weight and has a nice texture to it.

I got 4 yards so I should have enough for a favorite skirt pattern Marfy 3094.  I like the concept of this pattern.  Its very asymmetrical to state the obvious. Marfy styled it safari, but I think it has much more potential.

Marfy 3094 skirt

Leisa has made it and documented her journey well at A Challenging Sew.  I'll have to study how she works out the waistband.

I have one more skirt to finish and that Marfy 2762 for my wardrobe.  There are only 3 or 4 days and I'm working overtime.  But don't count me out, I'm determined to work it out this year.

*sigh* back to work for now.