Monday, October 12, 2009

Marfy 9468 Inseam Welt Pockets

This is how I made those cute little welt pockets on my Marfy 9468 white shirt.

First, let me show how well the pattern is marked: You can see that the marked letters F, H and B line up with the corresponding letters on the corresponding pieces. You can also see that there is a notch to mark both the front sleeve and where the shoulder seam lines up on the collar. How well they mark these points actually helps with garment assembly better than some of the of the companies actual instructions do.
Step 1: Sew lower front pieces together.
Step 2: Sew the yoke to the lower front from point 'F' to the sleeve, and from the other edge of the pocket opening to the front band 'H'. This should leave an opening in the seam between the yoke and the lower front. *Note* You are only sewing this to the one layer of the yoke. I didn't attache the yoke facing until Step 13 for a cleaner finish.

Step 3: Layout 2 of the pocket welts next to the pocket opening with the folded edge (blue line)out, and the open edges (pink line) towards each other. Lay the pocket pieces on top of the welts.

Step 4: Mark the stitching lines (gray line) on the pockets from the edge of the pocket opening, basically following the line on the patern pieces.
*Important* make sure that your welts will meet in the middle. I used 5/8 seam allowances, making sure that I had 5/8" on both sides of the seam line.

Step 5: Carefully stitch on the stitching lines (gray lines here).

Step 6: Clip the fabric to the corner of the seam at an angle being careful to clip as close to the corner as you can without clipping the stitching thread, as pictured in the upper welt.

Step 7: Pull the pocket pieces and the welts to the inside of the shirt tugging gently until the corners lay relatively flat.

Step 8: Fold the upper pocket down over the lower pocket with the crease at the top of the upper welt.
Step 9: Line up the pocket pieces, pull the welts flat and press well with lots of steam and a pressing block.

Step 10: From the side of the pocket that is up against the inside of the shirt, pin the pocket pieces together. Make sure that the little corners of the welts and the shirt lay flat and pin.

Step 11: From the side of the pocket next to the shirt, (using your zipper foot) sew the pocket pieces together being careful to catch the little points of the welts.

Step 12: Serge around the edges so that the raveling doesn't drive you nuts.

Step 13: Now you put the inner yoke piece over the back of the pocket matching up the shoulder notch and the neckline edges. For a nice clean finish, I folded under the lower edge and hand stitched it to the inside of the pocket and the lower front. You can still include it into the other 3 seams for a nice clean finish.
Step 14: Slip stitch the welts closed from the right side.


  1. This is too cool! Thanks for this very nicely presented tutorial. Your Marfy top is a headturner!

  2. it is great thanks a lot , zio in sydney


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