Wednesday, September 4, 2013

The best things in life come in 3s

BWOF 07-2009 102
I have talked about multiples several times and I'm going to start a short walk-through of the process.
BWOF 07-2009 102
It helps break the monotony of those necessary things that don't get the sewing spidey sense tingling, but they keep me decent under those cute tops and jackets.  A good pair of dress pants (out of good fabric) made with good (1 1/2") seam allowances will last 3 or 4 years. These are from 2009 and were also made in three.

For me, what makes the longevity of the good fabric vs. cheap is how well it recovers from a seam.  If it recovers well, you can take in and let out or replace the lining as often as you need without leaving that cheesy perforated line or pressed fold.  I also look for colors in the same color family so I don't have to change thread.

The given here is that you have to start with a TNT, mine is my evolved BWOF 7-2009.  I size up for my 44" hips and 36" waist, but other than that it really works.

Pin line marking shortest end
The only extra step that you must remember when laying out the fabric is to mark the end of the shortest piece.  If you don't do this you may end up losing and entire pair.  when you layout one pair at a time, you can just feel where the other layer ends, but I have always found it necessary when laying out several garments at once.
Oh yeah, I am shortening the front crotch length by about half an inch.  Yes, I did press it before cutting.


 Since there wasn't a lining pattern, and the pockets are cut-on with L-shaped pockets, the lining pattern must include both the upper front piece and the pants front.  I simply laid the upper front (pocket piece) over the pants front when I cut across the top of the lining.  As soon as you get all the pieces cut you are ready to start the fun part.

For me the key to saving time with mass production is to assemble in short steps and complete the same step for all pairs before moving on to the next step.  Right now I have stitched the back dart and started the front pockets.  After the front pockets, you sew the fly's, then its like you are almost done!

10 comments:

  1. So right you are! Good fabric makes all the difference.

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    1. You bet! I'm not going to admit how much I have in those 3 pairs. Buy the best and you only cry once.

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  2. I so need to do this, but first I need the TNT pattern!

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  3. Yes, the tnt is quite a problem to find. It is a good idea to have seam allowances that can be altered - I tend to leave extra at the back, like in men's trousers.

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  4. Very good to do it like this, but like Sharon I need the TNT first. I need pants badly but keep postponing making them again.

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  5. Have you had a chance to make up the fabric you bought for pants when we were together? If you did, I hope I haven't missed them.

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  6. I have loved this idea since you mentioned it at the Sewing Fashionistas' Christmas Party!

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  7. Right on!! Great to see your progress on your trousers.

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  8. What a good way to get multiples into the wardrobe reasonably swiftly. Onde everything is cut you have to go forward... I should do this as it might reduce my tendency to flit from project to project and not get to the things I need to sew.

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  9. Excellent post! Very helpful about cutting multiples and really - the fabric makes the garment - and yours is nice - you can see it even in the small pictures. Nice. Thanks for sharing the process.

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