Tuesday, September 29, 2009

A Question of Collar...



I think that I will really like the fit, but the collar isn't going to do exactly what I imagined. I was attempting to do this: but I really struggled with getting the upper collar to sit inside the lapel. After reading the directions a 4th time, and sleeping on it more than once, I have figured out what my problem is. I was confused because the pattern only has a facing for the front band and the lapel, like a shirt. It doesn't continue around the neck edge like the Vogue pattern that I am starting with. In fact, the point of the end of the collar extends about 2" below the neck edge. What I don't think is really clear in the instructions is the fact that the end of the collar band is sewn to the facing, not the jacket body. Also, the collar band is really short at only 7 1/2" long. I don't know how tight the neck edge actually is, but I made mine considerably smaller than the pattern and it was still 8 1/4" long and it just reaches the turn of the lapel. In order for it to extend down the front for the Burda jacket style, I would have to add at least another 2" to each side.
Now, I could do this by recutting the collar. I have about 26" left that I was saving for a skirt. I could sacrifice having a complete suit in order to make it look like what I was aiming for. I have other things that I could wear it with like black, gray, black w/red pinstripe.
That is where I am for now. I will probably update later after I consult with my sewing guru.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Sleeveless in Houston!

I have been trying to make good use of my rare time off by going through my sewing room, and man do I have a mountain of UFOs. Just starting with the stuff hanging in hangers on my door are 4 beautiful shirts, 1 casual and 3 that might work for job interviews:



Looking at this might lead one to question my devotion sleeves. Why do I have a block with sleeves? Maybe it is because once you put the sleeves on, you have committed yourself to the fit of the rest of the shirt. We seamstresses are so unbelievably particular about fit. We get things to a point that infinitely better than RTW, but then we wrinkle our noses and fuss over the slightest pull or wrinkle. Speaking of wrinkles, the one on that beautiful silk blouse in the middle disappeared with pressing. The one on left with the wrinkles by the shoulder will require re-sewing of the inset and a square shoulder adjustment, both of which should take about half an hour. As for the one on the right, I need to let out the side seams and get back on the treadmill.

These wrinkles and minor adjustments have left me with a doorknob cluttered with hangers of rejected "close-but-not-quite" garments that I barely remember starting. I have a million dollar wardrobe in the some assembly required stage.

This isn't all the shirts, some of them are still in ziplock bags so that the sleeves at least have a chance of staying with the rest of the garment. I also have 2 pairs of jeans, 2 pairs of pants and a pretty terrific looking skirt.

The fact that I have lost about 10 lbs over the last 6 months has immensely helped with the fitting challenges, and I certainly have more time now than I am ever likely to have again. I guess the only excuse that I have now is motivation, so before I go any further, I am going to go work on that red jacket before it is doomed to be a UFO forever.

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