Phooey! Pants fly madness

I got through the fly on all 3 pairs and I don't like any of them, and so they will be ripped...

I think I need find wider zippers, with wider zipper tape for one thing.

If you don't like it, you won't wear it!

Rip, rip rip...

Does anyone know of a good trouser zipper tutorial?  Quick and easy to read is a must, otherwise I might as well be reading the old BWOF instructions.

I used the Stitches and Seams tutorial by Debbie which I have used so often before, but my zipper tape isn't wide enough for a nicely proportioned fly!  I don't want to order a yard of Riri, its expensive and the pulls are bulky.  But, there is nothing more frustrating than having to replace a zipper!

Immediate fixes:
-I think the gray ones are OK, but i will look at them and think about it
-The navy pair has a fly that is too narrow, wider zipper is necessary
-The black pair at the bottom, I love the fabric, its too light weight and probably needs underlining or interfacing, plus the stripes are crooked on the right side.  (Rhonda, this is the fab fabric that I got when we were at High's)

So much for my "Stepping out of my Comfort Zone" pledge to myself to not start another project until I finished the first... I'm on to the Marfy polka dot blouse with the tie front, I'll post pics soon.

I'm putting the pants aside until later in the month, its just time to spend some time apart

The best things in life come in 3s

BWOF 07-2009 102

I have talked about multiples several times and I'm going to start a short walk-through of the process.

BWOF 07-2009 102

It helps break the monotony of those necessary things that don't get the sewing spidey sense tingling, but they keep me decent under those cute tops and jackets.  A good pair of dress pants (out of good fabric) made with good (1 1/2") seam allowances will last 3 or 4 years. These are from 2009 and were also made in three.

For me, what makes the longevity of the good fabric vs. cheap is how well it recovers from a seam.  If it recovers well, you can take in and let out or replace the lining as often as you need without leaving that cheesy perforated line or pressed fold.  I also look for colors in the same color family so I don't have to change thread.

The given here is that you have to start with a TNT, mine is my evolved BWOF 7-2009.  I size up for my 44" hips and 36" waist, but other than that it really works.

Pin line marking shortest end

The only extra step that you must remember when laying out the fabric is to mark the end of the shortest piece.  If you don't do this you may end up losing and entire pair.  when you layout one pair at a time, you can just feel where the other layer ends, but I have always found it necessary when laying out several garments at once.
Oh yeah, I am shortening the front crotch length by about half an inch.  Yes, I did press it before cutting.



 Since there wasn't a lining pattern, and the pockets are cut-on with L-shaped pockets, the lining pattern must include both the upper front piece and the pants front.  I simply laid the upper front (pocket piece) over the pants front when I cut across the top of the lining.  As soon as you get all the pieces cut you are ready to start the fun part.

For me the key to saving time with mass production is to assemble in short steps and complete the same step for all pairs before moving on to the next step.  Right now I have stitched the back dart and started the front pockets.  After the front pockets, you sew the fly's, then its like you are almost done!

The zen of DIY jeans - Me-Made-May-'13

I am making progress on the jeans.  I took the pattern from Burda 8085 that I first made and reviewed here way back in May of 2008.  Since then I have made several pairs at once in roughly bi-annual waves.

Last year I made a denim muslin not expecting it to fit at all.  I loved it so much that I wore it out.  I didn't serge the seams much (muslin-like) and I used regular C&C cotton corded poly.  I almost wore them out.  The CB seam came unraveled about 2 1/2" and I didn't notice it until I got to work.
Yep, my crack was showing.
Fortunately I get to work before most people and the only awkward moment was when I had to explain why I was leaving the bathroom carrying a stapler.

Have I ever mentioned that I hate muslins...
They always come around to bite me in the butt.

This years versions are an interesting study in how the weight and fiber content of fabric effects the fit and look of a garment.  I am cutting 2 pairs in traditional dark blue denim, and 2 pairs in colored denim-like substance from Emma One Sock.  The fiber content is 80% cotton approximately  18% NYLON and 2% lycra.  It was described as light weight and its really more like shirt weight than pants weight.  The look is COMPLETELY different.  The lighter jade pair are just really kind of embarrassing.  This pair is going to take a tunic or a longer shirt!
The darker pairs look fine, the cellulite wrinkles really don't show.

I finished the belt loops and hem this morning and wore them to work today.  They paired nicely with a striped tank (RTW) and My coral short-sleeved jacket Marfy 2762.
I decided to join Flicker and the Me-Made-May sew-along that is so popular.  With 4 new pairs of jeans, it should be a cinch.  I will post more later.

"I, Becki Chitwood sign up as a participant to Me-Made-May'13.  I endeavour to wear only me made garments (not including lingerie) for the duration of May 2013."

Yada-yada, end of 2012 on to 2013

I actually finished several projects last year.  My favorite (well not exactly, but the most dramatic) is the Burda Style dress from 9-2012 from Mathew Williamson.

I still can't find my camera so Ya'll are doomed to the dreaded office bathroom cell phone shot:

Here is the basic Pattern Review review:

Pattern Sizing:  sizes 36 - 44  I sized up to about a 46 while I was tracing.  It wasn't as hard as I thought it was going to be since I used my fantastic new SA ruler.  I was nervous about it being too tight because it looks so fitted on the model, but it turned out OK.  From looking at my pictures I actually think I could take it in soon if I continue to lose weight.  FWIW, next time I do this up-sizing thing I will draft more carefully.  Perhaps a tutorial soon...
Word of caution if you try this, those awful burda pattern drawings give you a head ache and may cause your eyes to jump out of your head.  I do it at work when I'm not staring at spreadsheets.

Although the photo is cute, it really doesn't do the seaming and the design justice.  It resembles as much as it needs to.  IMHO, mine is cuter.  As much as I would love access to that fabric, I think the color blocking is the best choice here.

I really tried to get in the pose to match the magazine photo, but I couldn't hold it.  You will have to settle for the typical cell phone/office bathroom mirror shot until I find my regular camera.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Uh, no.  I couldn't get past the first paragraph, it couldn't tell what two pieces it was telling me to sew together!  The pocket/front pieces with the pocket bag can be kind of tricky if its been along time since you made pants with slash pockets.
With Burda magazine patterns, I find it more helpful to follow the numbering of the seam on the pattern (as referred to in the ONLY diagram with the instructions).
You start by sewing the pocket lining to the top edge of the skirt pocket portion, then flipping it to the inside and sewing the pocket bag (inset in light fabric).  Then you sew around the outer edge of the pocket bag sewing the lining to the inset (back of the pocket bag) being careful to stop at the intersection of the seam allowance.  Pockets and the insets look like this when you are done.  Another thing that you can see in this picture is that I had to narrow the pocket opening by stitching a couple of inches on both sides of the opening.  when I first sewed this together they bulged terribly.  I had a hard time getting them to lay flat, but that could have been due to the way I sized up one size.

One design/construction detail that I really appreciate about this dress is the fact that the lining and the facings are cut to not overlap each other. The lining and the facings are sewn together at the edges, then the facings are sewn to the dress so that all the seams are enclosed and you don't have the bulk of the facing overlapping the complete lining.  Here is the inside of the front and the inside of the back showing the nice clean finish.

I used suit weight wool twill.  Mixing different fabrics actually makes me nervous, you have to be careful to not mix weights, fibers or textures (unless that is the design element, even then you still have to be careful).  Fortunately I found 3 different colors of wool suiting that had exactly the same product description in the selvage.
I used bemberg lining which I buy in nude and black by the bolt (or other large quantity when on sale) instead of digging around for matching lining I usually just use one color or the other for dresses.
For interfacing I used medium weight fusible from Pam Erny (Fashion Sewing Supply) naturally!

BUT, I will have to say that my favorite garments by far are the 3 pairs of jeans that I made!  Once again, ignore the office-bathroom cell phone picture.  Here is the PR review for Burda 8085 from 2008.  They are so wonderful that I just take them for granted.  You can't see the best part, that would be the 36" inseam!  Yes, that is a yard from my hoo-hoo to my hem and I love it!  The worst part about those store bought jeans (can you smell the disdain) is those teentsy little after-thought, cheapskate pocket that barely hold a cellphone.  Mine are considerably more substantial!  Ironically, the two black pairs survived.  I had a bit of trouble with the thread not being strong enough and the center back seam thread broke.  Fortunately I get to work early and noticed the draft so the only problem was explaining why I was leaving the bathroom carrying a stapler.

Another favorite (set of 3 of course) is the TNT Marfy 9468 that I first made 25lbs ago in 2009.  This one is totally washed out in this photo, its actually a pretty light purple color.  I'm actually holding the other two, one is bright white and the other is a pretty black and white print from Liberty of London.  More on these shirts later.  For now I am going to publish this post before I talk myself into doing more editing.

I am really powering forward in 2013, more sewing fearlessly, more leather jackets and a whole new and exciting set of Marfy patterns to be showcased later.

Pattern spoilage, New Look and Burda... And I'm the brave one?

You all know what a Marfy fanatic. I am, I can't help myself.

What is it about them that intimidates so?  Is it the fancy illustrations, the lack of instructions, or that fact that they don't pop out of a pattern drawer for $1.99 during a Sunday afternoon?

OK, I will admit, they do have a very narrow size range and I have been very fortunate to fall within that range.  The fact that they come one size to an envelope doesn't leave a lot for guesstimating, but it eliminates a lot of confusion too.  

I am trying to branch out, see what the fuss is and run with the in crowd. I do like my Jalie Sweetheart top so 87 reviews can't be wrong.

Two jersey wrap dress patterns come to mind, Marfy 2827 on the right and the ever-popular New Look 6097.  Who can forget all those fabulous reviews.!  I will admit it, I went out and bought it right after reading this blog post from Goodbye Valentino.  After all, I'm gonna look just like that, right?

I haven't sewn a  New Look in forever so I had no idea what I was missing.  I first noticed that I didn't have to paw through 4 different envelope size ranges.  This one comes with sizes 10 - 22 in one envelope!  So, the 11 pattern pieces are actually printed on two great big sheets of paper in various size groupings.

Are you kidding me???  All that time I saved not having to trace seam allowances was totally gobbled up sorting through different size iterations and groupings trying to remember if I was cutting a 16 or 18! Sometimes the pattern piece is sizes 10 - 14 - 20, and other times it was 10 - 16 - 22.  I know, I'm whining... but consistency would have been helpful!

And then to the instructions...  They actually weren't bad.  They made the usual pattern company mistake of putting in the sleeves after the side seams, but we all make that mistake once, right?  Thank you Peggy L for showing me the light on my first knit top reviewed here.

I can't believe that there are 4 pages of instructions for a super simple knit dress!

I am also working on Burda Style designer dress from September.  The style photo doesn't do it justice, its interesting lines scream for color blocking instead of being hidden in some wild print.

I did my pattern tracing while sitting at an office table during lunch hours.  I love sewing at lunch, it keeps me from eating too much and helps with the sewing progress.  It also starts some wonderful conversations with other seamstresses around the office.
Likes about the Burda:  it comes with complete lining and facing patterns.  I will admit, I wish Marfy included better 'extraneous' parts.  One thing that I miss:  pattern measurements like you get on Big 4.  These are easy to get on the well marked, single sized Marfy, but not on Burda.  I sized up from the 44 to about a 46 so that its 46 at the hips and 35 waist.  This is kind of confusing with that nested and scrambled pattern menagerie that is the Burda pattern sheet.  I would like to say that there was some calculated scientific method to it.  My mother said that I was bad about "meandering across the fabric," she had no idea.

Bottom line on pattern companies, I still like Marfy.  They are better marked and I prefer the efficient packaging.  Really, how many of those whole wardrobe patterns do you have where you have actually made more than one view?  You usually just buy it for the top or maybe the jacket, the rest of those pieces are just in the way.
I just love the efficiency.

Next, I will talk about those instructions and post pictures of that jersey dress which is almost done.

I promise, I will post pictures as soon as I can get some decent ones with a clean mirror or a better camera!

One More Skirt!

Burda "Style" April 2010 skirt 125.

Without the bow. I just wasn't feeling the love for the BOW. It looks super cute, is super easy to wear and adds swing to a professional skirt.

I am also not feeling the love for no pockets, but that saves so much time.

So does no-waistband, but it isn't as much fun to wear.

This is one of those projects that I am probably going to go back to fiddling with.

It cute though, I enjoy wearing it.

Meeow...

I asked for it, I got it!
Finally, a personal fashion statement that doesn't contain a YAWN!

This is Burda #108 from last month. It is the perfect use for that stunning EOS silk jersey (said Tahari).
Now I could have picked something sensible like a Jalie top, but that wouldn't have looked any less cougar (mid life crisis). I won't wear this any less than I would have worn the top.

Besides, I literally cut this out yesterday at about 4PM, and I am going to wear it tomorrow.

Getting there...

I did a little more fine tuning, and got the waistband on today. In order for me to get any happier with these, I am going to have to lose some of that belly. I did another 2 miles on the treadmill today, so I am getting there.

I really think that I will take these apart and use them as the pattern. I didn't line them and I don't like them that way. They are also almost identical to a cotton pair, go figure.

Be-Fitting the Pants

I am back to progressive sewing. I finally got the muslin together for July 2009-102. The good news is that I cut a size 46 with 1" side seams, and had to take them in about an inch on each side.

I am not going to fine tune the waist until I get the waist band on, that makes a difference.

I need to fix the lower front crotch and take some of the width out of te back leg, but I think that I can fix both of those problems by taking in the inseam.

I also got to do some coverstitching today! I hemmed some shirts that I have been wearing. Now I can plan what to do next.

My first reaction was to grab whatever was quick and easy, but I think that I will make what I love instead. I really love this summer shirt, so I think I will make one like it for winter in deep red silk jersey from Sarah Veblen.