Phooey! Pants fly madness

I got through the fly on all 3 pairs and I don't like any of them, and so they will be ripped...

I think I need find wider zippers, with wider zipper tape for one thing.

If you don't like it, you won't wear it!

Rip, rip rip...

Does anyone know of a good trouser zipper tutorial?  Quick and easy to read is a must, otherwise I might as well be reading the old BWOF instructions.

I used the Stitches and Seams tutorial by Debbie which I have used so often before, but my zipper tape isn't wide enough for a nicely proportioned fly!  I don't want to order a yard of Riri, its expensive and the pulls are bulky.  But, there is nothing more frustrating than having to replace a zipper!

Immediate fixes:
-I think the gray ones are OK, but i will look at them and think about it
-The navy pair has a fly that is too narrow, wider zipper is necessary
-The black pair at the bottom, I love the fabric, its too light weight and probably needs underlining or interfacing, plus the stripes are crooked on the right side.  (Rhonda, this is the fab fabric that I got when we were at High's)

So much for my "Stepping out of my Comfort Zone" pledge to myself to not start another project until I finished the first... I'm on to the Marfy polka dot blouse with the tie front, I'll post pics soon.

I'm putting the pants aside until later in the month, its just time to spend some time apart

The best things in life come in 3s

BWOF 07-2009 102

I have talked about multiples several times and I'm going to start a short walk-through of the process.

BWOF 07-2009 102

It helps break the monotony of those necessary things that don't get the sewing spidey sense tingling, but they keep me decent under those cute tops and jackets.  A good pair of dress pants (out of good fabric) made with good (1 1/2") seam allowances will last 3 or 4 years. These are from 2009 and were also made in three.

For me, what makes the longevity of the good fabric vs. cheap is how well it recovers from a seam.  If it recovers well, you can take in and let out or replace the lining as often as you need without leaving that cheesy perforated line or pressed fold.  I also look for colors in the same color family so I don't have to change thread.

The given here is that you have to start with a TNT, mine is my evolved BWOF 7-2009.  I size up for my 44" hips and 36" waist, but other than that it really works.

Pin line marking shortest end

The only extra step that you must remember when laying out the fabric is to mark the end of the shortest piece.  If you don't do this you may end up losing and entire pair.  when you layout one pair at a time, you can just feel where the other layer ends, but I have always found it necessary when laying out several garments at once.
Oh yeah, I am shortening the front crotch length by about half an inch.  Yes, I did press it before cutting.



 Since there wasn't a lining pattern, and the pockets are cut-on with L-shaped pockets, the lining pattern must include both the upper front piece and the pants front.  I simply laid the upper front (pocket piece) over the pants front when I cut across the top of the lining.  As soon as you get all the pieces cut you are ready to start the fun part.

For me the key to saving time with mass production is to assemble in short steps and complete the same step for all pairs before moving on to the next step.  Right now I have stitched the back dart and started the front pockets.  After the front pockets, you sew the fly's, then its like you are almost done!

Getting there...

I did a little more fine tuning, and got the waistband on today. In order for me to get any happier with these, I am going to have to lose some of that belly. I did another 2 miles on the treadmill today, so I am getting there.

I really think that I will take these apart and use them as the pattern. I didn't line them and I don't like them that way. They are also almost identical to a cotton pair, go figure.

Be-Fitting the Pants

I am back to progressive sewing. I finally got the muslin together for July 2009-102. The good news is that I cut a size 46 with 1" side seams, and had to take them in about an inch on each side.

I am not going to fine tune the waist until I get the waist band on, that makes a difference.

I need to fix the lower front crotch and take some of the width out of te back leg, but I think that I can fix both of those problems by taking in the inseam.

I also got to do some coverstitching today! I hemmed some shirts that I have been wearing. Now I can plan what to do next.

My first reaction was to grab whatever was quick and easy, but I think that I will make what I love instead. I really love this summer shirt, so I think I will make one like it for winter in deep red silk jersey from Sarah Veblen.