Shirting Stash

More shirt fabrics from my stash:

The top fabric is a fabulous, beefy silk jersey from EOS. There is enough for a long sleeve top.

2nd is silk charmeuse from Universal Fabrics in Rice Village in Houston. It was the lining for Vogue 1126, and there is enough left for maybe a short sleeve shell.

The purple with the gray dots on the left is silk charmeuse 45" - 1 1/2 yds for a silk lining.

On the right bottom corner is a substantial silk twill from EOS, I think I have 2 yds of 55".

Top of the second picture is fabulous, light silk twill from EOS. It also has some pink in it, but a huge repeat. I think that I have 2 yds of 60".

Next is a light weight silk jersey in black and beige. I have about 2 yds of 45"

One more group of solid-ish cotton shirtings. Left to right"

White twill with a diagonal line woven in from Farmhouse Fabrics. 2 yds of 60"

Pink birds eye from Universal Fabrics 1.75 yds.

Red fine check from Universal 1.5 yds.

Dark red irridescent from Universal. 2 1/2 yds of 60"

Black and white Irridescent from Universal 2 1/2 yds of 60"

Yay! New Marfy free patterns for 2010

Marfy posted the images of their free patterns included in the upcoming 2010 catalog. Love them all, but my favorite outfit is the one right under the Marfy label with the button front skirt and the blouse with the ties at the neckline.

Marfy 1895 Progress

I like the fit so far, but I am concerned about how high that neck is. I like those shoulders.

I really think those stripes are wild!

It will look good with just about any color, blue jeans and black or gray pants.

There is Marfy 2010 news. Jenni pointed out to me that the cover of the new catalog is available in Italian! They don't have the new free patterns yet, but they can't be far behind.http://www.marfy.it/ita/activenews.asp?idcat=&idart=60050&azione=detailcataloghi&layout=&CID=A151L156L220091221174708PNIRNIPUMMF09721381

I don't think that their links ever work, but if you go to the Italian language site you can follow the link to the cover.

Marfy 1895 - Shirt Love Continues

For the interesting stripes that need to be seen and heard, you can't go wrong with a Marfy shirt pattern.

I got this fabric from Farmhouse fabric online, and I am in love with those colors and the texture. The fun thing about this fabric is that it doesn't mirror, the pattern goes in one direction then it repeats itself. This made the pattern layout complicated. For the center front I matched it up to the navy and white stripe, I will let you know how that works out. On the upside, who will know if I am wrong?

One thing that I completely gave up on is the back. I could not get all those stripes organized into those 5 sections without it looking like a bar code on acid.

One thing that you will notice here is the subtle contouring and organic shaping of the seam lines. This is part of what makes these patterns so remarkable. They didn't just take a solid back and slash and spread it, the contour lines resemble a pattern that was draped and shaped by hand.

Their collar pattern are interesting as well. They include separate patterns for the inside and the outside of both the collar and the band that allow for the turn of the cloth by 3/8". Other than that they really don't have much curve to shape to the shirt. The collar band and the bottom edge of the collar are both really straight! I will see how I like it, then I may recut it.

The Upside of Sewing: Stash of Dreams

I love fabric shopping! It is better than going out and buying clothes because you get that shoppers high from the fabric, the pattern and even the buttons.

I just love good fabric, the softness, the texture and the pretty colors.

This section starts with a blue and brown check which I love but goes with nothing else.

Aqua and gray stripe cotton from EOS (less than 1 1/2yd)

Pink, blue and white fairly heavy with cross grain stretch.

Wide stripe yellow and blue, summer weight w/slight jacquard.

Pink and gray stripe that I have laid out for a shirt already (one of those Marfy's, 1895)

I am not just showing off, I am putting pictures in a place where I can find them so that when I am looking for inspiration, or new fabric, I can just look here and see what I have.

Next Section,

More blue than you can stand!

Still more blue, noticing a trend?

The top is a super sweet twill that I got from Farmhouse, it won't be stash long.

Second is actually pique like a birdseye.

Last is a silk/cotton blend that I think is 50/50. It is super soft and a touch sheer so I will have to deal with that. Maybe I will put pin tucks in a bib front or a yoke.

I will post more later. I am suprised by the challenge of getting good fabric pictures, my hats off to the professionals!

The Downside of Sewing

Sorry this looks funky, I still have a hard time formatting here...

The downside is the distance between that shirt in your imagination and that shirt on your body:

In my imagination it looked more like the Tory Burch Stevie shirt http://www.toryburch.com/toryburch/browse/productDetail.jsp?icProduct=31091127&icSort=&icCategory=104#

In defense of the shirt, I have used this pattern before, and it was almost this unflattering at this point. But, I get so many compliments on its sort sleeved summer version:

I will get the long, cuffed sleeves on, then work on the neckline. This fabric is so unbelievably comfortable that I just might have to finish this, then see what I can do to make it flattering.

I think that I need to take it up at the shoulders so it isn't sagging in front. I will start there, then see what you think again.

Getting there...

I did a little more fine tuning, and got the waistband on today. In order for me to get any happier with these, I am going to have to lose some of that belly. I did another 2 miles on the treadmill today, so I am getting there.

I really think that I will take these apart and use them as the pattern. I didn't line them and I don't like them that way. They are also almost identical to a cotton pair, go figure.

Be-Fitting the Pants

I am back to progressive sewing. I finally got the muslin together for July 2009-102. The good news is that I cut a size 46 with 1" side seams, and had to take them in about an inch on each side.

I am not going to fine tune the waist until I get the waist band on, that makes a difference.

I need to fix the lower front crotch and take some of the width out of te back leg, but I think that I can fix both of those problems by taking in the inseam.

I also got to do some coverstitching today! I hemmed some shirts that I have been wearing. Now I can plan what to do next.

My first reaction was to grab whatever was quick and easy, but I think that I will make what I love instead. I really love this summer shirt, so I think I will make one like it for winter in deep red silk jersey from Sarah Veblen.

*sigh* not worth fighting over

Don't call me chicken, she bites. You can't actually see her fangs in this picture, but you can see the look in her eyes.

I finally finished *the* shirt. I love the print, I love the neckline. I love the way that this shirt doesn't pull or twist of bag open in the front. I just love these Italian patterns. The wear ability is greatly enhanced by that front yoke piece that extends the shoulder and changes the angle of the front wrap over.

Who do you know that loves what they sew as much as I love my Marfy patterns? They have some kind of Italian magic that subtracts 10 lbs. That is worth the extra money to me. They save me time because I know that they are going to fit!

This makes it garment #4 for my 10 piece wardrobe:

I still have no pants or skirts finished, but I have an interview this afternoon and another one in the morning.

Wish me luck.

Whew! Marfy 1903

I am making progress on *the* shirt. I sure hope I like it, it seems a bit wild for an interview. In fact, I am not sure where I would wear it. I don't have any flamenco dancing planned. I will have to see how it looks under a jacket.

I have the attachment done on the one easy side, but I still haven't really figured out how I am going to do that on the outside. I am leaning towards a button placket like she suggested.

This is actually much more wearable than it looks. I wore it around the house a bit (mostly trying to get a good photo) and it doesn't seem to gap as much as I thought it would.

Now, I am going to have to bite the bullet ad let the sides of that jacket out so that I can finish these sleeves. I think I am going to have to make cuffs in order to keep sleeve fluff from spilling out.

Good day sewing

I finished my tuxedo shirt, even if the picture is a little off color and grainy.

I also made progress fitting my jacket:

The shoulder and the sleeves look better. I took about half an inch out of the sleeves, and moved them in (made the shoulders narrower) about 3/8 and inch. I have also gained about 7 lbs in the last month *ugh*.

I still need to steam the sleeve caps and the pleats, but it definitely doesn't hang now. The peplum hangs funny because there is a pin caught on my sleeves.

Marfy 1245 - I am so screwed

15 pieces for a jacket! *sigh* I wish that I were attracted to easy things!
This doesn't even include everything. I see the front band, but I guess the front and back horizontal bands are overlays.

What do you think?

This is probably going to keep me up at night!

Oh well, I was looking for something to do with my time anyway.

I am done with my cute little blue and white shirt, except for the buttons and buttonholes. I will post pictures when that is done.

As for my gray jacket...

I took the sleeves out, moved them in to make the shoulders narrower and made the sleeves narrower by about 3/8. I have the first sleeve sewn and it does seem to fit better. Peggy told me that that would work, and I knew that was what it needed, I just didn't want to admit it.

Burda 1-2008-107 shirt

I am making good progess on my next shirt, this would make it 4 since my vacation started!

I actually have sleeves on it, but I need to put the cuffs on.

I like the way that it fits for the most part, even with the jacket:

I think that I am going to lower the front neckline, even if it means recutting (lengthening) the collar.

Other than that, throw on some pearl buttons, those french cuffs and I am DONE.

Then I can move on to that wool jacket, a skirt or some pants.

I guess when I run out of fabric I will have to go back to work.

Good Wednesday Musings

I finished another garment for the wardrobe contest, Yeah! Wasn't it beautiful out there this morning!

I made progress on another: This is the tuxedo shirt from Burda from January 2008, and the fit is really good! I love the way those stripes line up!

I even had a great greek salad for lunch at Barnaby's with my good friend Peggy.

Then I went to an interview which went well.

Since we are in the zen weather period in Houston and the weather was phenominal this afternoon (like this morning as you can see above), I went home and sipped a margarita on the back porch.

The day couldn't have been any better if I had bought fabric!

Oh wait, UPS came this evening:

That picture does nothing for those colors! I also got some nice basic black suiting.

I will sleep will with visions of silk twill and striped cottong shirting dancing in my head.

Hhmmm - Marfy 1903 closure?

I have this blouse cut out (except for the facings which are of plain silk twill), and I am thinking through my construction steps. I can't figure out how I am going to close it!

My first instinct is to go with an invisible zipper, but the fabric is a bit too delicate for that, and the curve of the seam would make it a challenge.

The drawing to the right, and the diagram below indicate that you are too use buttons, but Marfy usually includes markings for buttons when they are to be used. If I go with buttons between the 'F' and 'H' markings, I would have to put them on the left side underneath as well as the right side. In other words, the underlay would have to be secured as well as the overlay. I suppose I could do this and have them button to the inside, but that might be a little awkward.

Any suggestions? I have made and worn crossover tops before, and really liked them, but they all had wrap around ties. I suppose I could draft that, but it isn't what I want with this print.

One more change that I think I will make is to put button cuffs on the sleeves. As you can see above, they are designed to have elastic at the wrists, but I don't think that will look very good under a jacket. I am concerned about the fullness of the sleeves as it is, I don't want them sliding up when put my jacket on, or tumbling out from underneath like I am a magician hiding a magic scarf.

More on Vogue 1126 -80% Done

I did work on this today. I added the padding to the back and it does look better to me. I also took out, and resewed those sleeve caps. I added sleeve heads but they are too small and you can't even tell that they are there.

I improved the collar and the roll line of the lapel just by trimming all the seam allowances. I pressed up the hems on the sleeves, but could go even be shorter.

I haven't forgotten about this, I am just "letting it Breathe" like a fine wine. The sleeves are wearable and comfortable, but I won't be able to wear big flowing sleeves, I need to tone it down a notch.

If you can't tell from my typing, I hasv already taken my sleeping pill so I will be going to bed for now.

For today's interview, we will be appearing in vintage navy pinstripes

A warm hug from the past, and a resounding testament to hand tailoring.



This is a tailored jacket that I made in 1995 for my life as a "professional." I got the chalk stripe Ralph Lauren wool flannel in Jackson, TN for $50/yard which was outrageous for me at that time. I never dreamed that I would still be sporting this 14 years later for a job interview as an accountant.


Although, it should have been obvious with those navy pinstripes. Seriously, who wears double breasted navy pinstriped suits besides lawyers and accountants.
This started as a skirt, pants and jacket, but the pants were much, much too warm for winters here. Since the skirt was 2 or 3 inches too small by now, I cut the back apart at the side darts and cut a side back panel from the front pieces of the pants. You can barely see it in the picture to the left. I put inverted pleats to the bottom so that I would have more range of motion. They also add to that "I meant for it to look this way" illusion.


I like the whole look with that modern Burda striped red top, very professional. I may lower the hem an inch, and I may not.

The jacket pattern is a DKNY "Semi-fitted lined, below hip double breasted jacket with notched collar, welt pockets, side back seams, back vent, shoulder pads and long 2 piece sleeves with mock vent.

Sewing Musings

I had a nice touch of spring waiting for me in the mailbox this morning. I love getting packages from Emma OneSock, she seldom disapoints. I am glad that I got the last practical fabric (hah, practical) before she was innundated with Christmas sparkles.

It is fabulous silk jersey which is my biggest vice. This lovely, substantial fabric can't wait until spring. It will be a knock out sweetheart top on any winter rainy day.

Hhmm, good chance of rain tomorrow, and I really can get a shirt done in a day.

As for winter:

There is a new sewing contest about sewing with wool starting November 1. I am thinking about this jacket which is Marfy 1245 in black and white houndstooth or birdseye with black sateen trim. The only thing that I would change is the lower sleeve piece, that just looks awkward.

Or, I could use this: In a normal, plain jacket pattern.

I am going to universal Fabrics this afternoon, I may come home with something completely different.

Good thing I have more than a week to decide!

With Facings

Since I know that you wanted play by play action...

I like the front, it fits well, and it isn't too tight through the shoulders. I still need to add the structure to the shoulder/back area, but I need more batting for that.

Funny thing about that, I remembered to buy some at Universal, but I only got half a yard and it isn't long enough and I don't want to have to piece it. So, I am going to make it into a bunch of shoulder pads, and get more for the whole shoulder/back pieces.

I am hoping that more shoulder structure will get some of those wrinkles from under my arms.

Speaking of the back:

I really like the fit better since I added a couple of inches to that back belt. I don't know what they were thinking making it too short, but it just looked bad.

I took Jenni's advice and understitched the pleats and they are nice and crisp, even though they pull a little from their basting thread as well.

As for the buttons, I have a few in my stash that will work:

I am actually leaning towards the smaller square ones at the top. I really don't like the great big square ones, but the round ones would work.

What do you think?

I really should go and get more of that batting and get this thing done, but I don't feel like getting out this afternoon.

I had forgotten how much Friday afternoons suck when you are unemployed.

No one wants to talk to anyone new on Fridays. I had an interview last Friday and didn't get a call back for a second interview this week.

Nothing good ever happens on Fridays when you are looking for work.

This just may work out...

Update on Vogue 1126 jacket: I am not sure about the look of the pockets, and the band could have been moved down even more to lengthen the look.

I haven't padded the shoulders and the back yet, I am hoping that will help that funny wrinkle between the bust point and the side seam. If not, I will try to take it up under the arm and see if that will help.

I really think that I will like it. I will post about what buttons to use as soon as I get the facing sewn on. I have a couple in mind from my stash. The sleeves are pretty comfortable and plenty long. I added 2" because with Vogue, you never can tell.