beccabeck stuff

A Blog Questionare

2011-09-17T21:20:00.011-05:00

I saw this wonderful, questionare on The Last Stitch website:http://thelaststitch.blogspot.com/2011/09/blog-questionaire.html she is an interesting blogger who takes wonderful pictures and is always doing interesting things.

What's the yuckiest food you know? Whatever that science experiment was that I just threw away out of the back of the fridge. I have no idea what it used to be, don't want to know. I am not a very picky eater really, I like vegetables. One weird thing that I can't stand is peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, its too squishy and weird salty sweet.

Mention 5 things that you are happy with regarding your career?

1. The variety and focus of the work that I do in my current job. I examine the financial statements for all sorts of companies and it really isn't as boring as it sounds. For instance, did you know that Stuart Weitz. shoe company is 55% owned by the parent Co. of Jones Apparel?

2. The implied respect that comes with actually having letters behind your name. I'm pretty proud of being a CPA.

3. The logic. Yes, there is logic to accounting. 2+2=4, and it always will.

4. The view from my office window.

5. Job security. Companies will always need bean counters.

Do you have any regrets in life? Doesn't everyone? I wish I hadn't let my sister get between me and my mom. I wish I hadn't let my husband grow up to be so irresponsible. I wish I had had more fun growing up, you really can't go back.

Whatever. Its what you do with today that is important.

What are you going to wear this winter? Dresses, in spite of my office full of men. With my Cole Haan knee high boots from last Christmas. I want to make a leather skirt this year, they are all over the department stores.

Other than that, wait and see.

What is your most expensive piece of clothing? I have become quite a shoe diva. This happened when I started working across the street from Nordstrom. Kate Spade absolutely spoiled me. Yes you really can have a comfy pair of 3 1/2" heels. I have become quite a bargains shopper. The latest addition to my collection is a pair of patent leather Katie's that she called navy, but I swear are black. I got them for a steal (118) at 6pm.com. One of my favorite purchases is this pair of red pumps from Bettye Meuller.

Do you have any secret talents? If I told you, they wouldn't be a secret would they?

What did you do last weekend? My biggest accomplishment was getting most of the way done with my first fall dress Vogue 1206. It was a wonderful weekend!

What are your five most important to-do's this week?

1. Put pockets on that new dress so I can sneak out to the grocery store next door without having to carry my purse. Its together enough to be wearable now, but it needs some fit tweaking. You sewers know how that goes...The top of it looks really good:

2. I really need to go to the doctor and get my annual physical *UGH*

3. Finish analyzing the long term debt of a financial company called Platinum. Its one of those things that you call a learning experience!

4. Lose another few pounds. If you exercise that low carb thing really works, I shed 5 pounds last week.

5. Most importantly, get the A/C in my truck fixed! *UGH* it will probably cost the equivalent of 5 pairs of shoes.

What are you wearing now? Purchased jeans from Eddie Bauer which are about 2" too short and a silk jersey sleeveless shirt from that Vogue pattern that got tons of reviews a few years back. Its perfect for a middle aged Saturday night.

Last song you listened to? Not counting the songs that just happen to be playing when you get in the car... The last song that I deliberately listened to was from a Beatles anthology called Love that came out a few years ago.

Best beauty trick? Don't dress in denial, wear clothes that fit. Wearing things that are too tight doesn't make you look any skinnier. Wearing things that are too young doesn't make you look any younger.

Which clothes style do you prefer on men? What ever makes it easier for them to take the trash out... I'm not in the mood to not be snarky.

And ugliest? Refer to my prior comment about denial.

What magazines do you read? Burda, of course. I don't have a current subscription, but September was very impressive. I also like Bon Appetite. I am currently debating getting the ice-cream attachment for my Kitchen aid mixer so I am officially back in the mood to cook.

Now back to sewing. I have several things is the works for this fall, and if I can just keep my focus I will have a pretty fabulous wardrobe!

However, I can't find my camera, which really cuts down on my blogging and my reviewing.

THE dress (BWOF db sleeveless trench)

2011-07-11T21:14:00.004-05:00

So, we all know how hard it is to find sewing hero's, much less sewing hero's who know that we are alive! So when you do find one and she not only knows your name, but she traces you a pattern from one of her 2001 BWOF patterns you should show some respect and sew it right away, not 3 years later, right?

Yeah well, its 2 or 3 years later...
Original review here: http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&ID=29961

How can you compete with that! Not only is it a perfect fitting size 6, but if she didn't show the construction details I would just believe that it had descended from heaven!
So, she traced me a 42 or a 44, I dont' remember which, but I was too prooud to admit that it did come near fitting! How do you grade up a single size pattern? by trial and error and with difficulty. Here is the original pattern page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/54636325@N00/2619499634/in/photostream/

(stolen from Kay of course).

Well, I botched the upper collar topstitching. I will be ripping and resewing, sober next time.

I am sizing up to a 46 which is actually going OK. I just need to work out the details, I want to add bulky belt loops and maybe some cargo pockets with brassy zippers on them and snaps on the front!
*sigh* maybe tomorrow I will get in some sewing
too much drama today...

But, I love my new job doing SEC Reporting. Its much more interesting than it sounds.

Luscious Linton!

2011-06-25T20:23:00.008-05:00

I consider it my duty as a self proclaimed fabric connoisseur to report on my experiences with the one and only "Linton Tweed" as purchased at http://www.lintondirect.co.uk/
After many, many hours of snooping and ogling I finally actually ordered some tweed. I was pleasantly surprised. For some reason good customer service still surprises me...

I ordered 3 pieces at 2 meters each on a Wednesday afternoon, and I had my lovelies by Monday! I can order from 1,000 miles away and not get it that fast! I had an email confirmation by Thursday morning (order #180!), I politely inquired about my tracking number (which they politely sent) and I received my package Monday!

Pictured here is #2852 which is oh so close to a Oscar De La Renta dress which I saw at Saks Off Fifth ave earlier this year. (the top fabric is a paisley silk which happens to blend perfectly). The variations in texture betweent he finely woven inserts and the heavy colored yarns were a fabulous contrast from the old fuddy 'Chanel' fabric that I saw in the fabric shops, and ODL turned it in to a young and vibrant corset dress. I had to find some and do something young with it...

Now the hard part, finding something young to do with it...

The black and white (in the background of the swatches) is about 50/50 silk and cotton so it easily transforms into this dress http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8739-products-14177.php?page_id=865 V8739. I would like to add a collar, we will see how it goes...

My favorite of the 3 fabrics is the red/tan one seen here:
http://www.lintondirect.co.uk/component/virtuemartpage=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=489&category_id=1 is my favorite and I will wait for this fall to decide what it wants me to turn it into.

They also sent me quite a few swatches which I am mulling over. I will say, if you see something that you want you had better order it, they do sell out of some things.

2011 Marfy Dreams

2011-03-31T22:05:00.018-05:00

As another Month-End-Close starts (12 hr work days for a week and a half), and another jacket gets close to done I have turned my attention to whats next.

The pink jacket with the angled front seaming would look stunning in white denim and a print for the cuffs.

I love these 2 shirts. I am always on the lookout for new shirt patterns for stripes, and #2410 is super cute in a natural silk noil-type fabric for spring.

That sleeveless tan jacket is perfect for weekends in tan. Don't you just love the hemline?

Dress 2596 in plaid has very interesting and flattering seaming and drape even though I am not crazy about the top and sleeves. I know that I would have to go with something short sleeved for this town, that looks hot!

I haven't bought the two jackets below, very unique sleeve treatment but I am not sure how wearable they are. I love that gathered collar on the right and the sleeves would look cute if shortened to right below the gathers.

This a good start, lots more pictures to follow so stay tuned!

1 UFO Conquered -Marfy 1885

2011-03-30T22:03:00.004-05:00

I was so in the mood for spring clothes!

The tomato plants have grown into bushes, the weather is dependably in the 80's and the grass is finally retuning to green (at least the weeds are).

When you are short on time and looking for a quick fix the only thing better than shopping your stash is shopping your UFO's.

What stood out for me most was this shirt!

Marfy 1885 and it looks fabulous!

The only thing more fabulous than the front is the back!

Love it!

The only things I had to finish was the arm binding and the sew on the buttons.

What was I waiting for? It looks great with that blue leather jacket.

I have decided to use the dress with the ruffle at the neck, and I am down to hand stitching the hem and lining the sleeves of that other jacket pluss buttons & buttonholes.

I will see how much I can get done this weekend

Marfy for 2011! 1637 redone

2011-03-28T21:38:00.012-05:00

I am loving this jacket. Even lovin' the collar! So now, so Kay Unger-esque. I told my husband that and he asked me which circus she worked for, go figure. (This from a man who buys clothes at the hardware store. *whatever*).

Changes made:

I completely revolutionized the collar of course!

I also added 2" to the peplum. I like the length a little longer

I made the pockets angled like regular pockets (yeah that just looked awkward)

Here is the line drawing:

After wearing the other jacket for a few years I have a couple of observations: no pockets really drives me crazy!, the collar is kind of flippy and a touch awkward, I really think I will like it with a slightly longer look

As for problem #1, I LOVE pockets and this jacket has 3 welt pockets including the interior right breast pocket

#2 I changed the collar so that the upper an lower are joined (I used my Armstrong Patterndrafting book for this)

#3 I added 2" to the peplum of the jacket and 1 1/2" to the top of the bodice like last time.

I just need to add the sleeve lining, I may understitch the collar, add some canvas to the shoulder area and raise the hem just a tad.

Of course I am already thinking of what I can cut next (crazy!)

I have always wanted to make something fab out of that purple on the right, but I only have 1 3/4 yards of it so I am thinking dress:

I have it layed out on Vogue 1233, but I don't quite have enough for the bias band and I would have to make it out of black. On the other hand, I could use 1206.

What do you think for the spring purple:

Marfy 1637 progress for a 4 day weekend

2011-03-24T22:28:00.007-05:00

I got the welt pockets in which in itself is an accomplishment.I also got some more fitting approval, and finagled with the fit.

I also set in the sleeves, but i think I need a layer of batting and maybe a layer of canvas to help the structure of the sleeves.

BUT, you will not truly have identity for the garment until you have the collar on it. I am still undecided. I like the pleats and how they creat the texture and the character. But, I am thinking of toning down the statement like making it straighter and narrower. I will wait and think about it tomorrow.

I hope to be done with this and wearing it! Maybe if nothing else comes up.

I have plenty of other things in various stages of unfinished, which does usually keep me from wearing them!

Well Fitting marfy 1637

2011-03-17T20:05:00.007-05:00

I have been working pretty diligently on my lined jacket.

I added a couple of inches to the peplum, and 1 1/2 to the upper jacket. I did my usual fit adjustments which are squaring the shoulders a tad and tapering out from the waist to hips. Even the back looks pretty good!

I am glad I made it longer, its a more elegant and dressy look.

This time I will be sure to put the pockets! That's the thing that really drives me nuts about the other one, no pockets. I am going to put them where pinned on the right front.

And I am not crazy about the neckline a drafted, so I made it narrower by about 3/4" on each side.

I can't say anything, it looks just like the pattern drawing!

I was going to do bound button holes, but I really don't have enough fabric left. How is that for efficiency!

Lined Jacket Contest

2011-03-09T06:54:00.005-06:00

I have started working on my lined jacket for the contest. I really thought about making something new, but I really wanted a summer version of Marfy 1637.

I know that there are a lot of cute new things, but I felt like going with something familiar.

I am making some changes though. I am narrowing the neckline by about an inch so it isn't so wide.

The upper collar isn't going to change (so far) so it should come a little lower on the neckline. I am thinking about taking the lower collar piece and making it a ruffle. I have a good bit of fabric left over, so I have some room to play with this.

I am also making it 2" longer by lengthening the bottom peplum.

You can see some of my pattern chages in the layout here.

The fabric is a fabulous silk/wool blend from High's which has a lovely gold sheen and a fabulous drape.

The lining that you see is a pretty silk charmeuse roll end from EOS

I promise, I will post pictures of my Marfy patterns. I haven't received my order yet, but there were quite a few wonderful things in that new catalog.

Break from Soul Sucking

2011-03-07T21:45:00.006-06:00

I am back...

I have been away for awhile (understatement)

Not sewing much (understatement)

That perfect 45 hour a week job has taken a turn towards 50 hour soul sucking, but thats another story. "What do you look for in a job?" for another time.

I have finished a skirt from this wonderful navy window pain plaid:

Its McCalls 5523 and its quite worth the fan fair. Lovely potential for stripes and plaids. So, of course I went over board:

Bias plaid on the sides and the gusset in this dark plaid make it almost boring and plain, or almost over the top. The back has a gusset which adds flair, and the plaid looks quite interesting:

Check out those shoes!! Kenneth Coles gray snake and silver heels! I grabbed them over lunch one day.

This is another job hazard, lunch at Nordstrom!

I have never been a shop till you drop gal, but i have spent more time in Ann Taylor in the last month than I did in years before that. I haven't been around clothes hoarders much so this is quite new to me. They have closets stuffed full of cheap clothes, some of which they have NEVER worn!

They drag me shopping because I'm the best heavy. They want me to talk them out of buying the wrong thing and I can do that. "Do you LOVE it?" Am I the only one who asks this?

Shoes are my weakness. I'll show you my Kate Spades next.

Next i will post some spring plans, including another Marfy 1637 for that lined jacket contest.

Party Dress! Vogue 1162

2010-12-05T20:45:00.005-06:00

This was just a bad karma dress, but I finished it with about an hour to spare! Seriously, the power went out at 5 and the party was at 7!

I decided to pass on the flowers, other reviewers have said that they take about 6 hours of hand sewing each. This is too much for a dress that you only wear once or twice!

IMHO they are a little strong, but they might work well in a more subtle color like all black.

The lace looks OK.

The pattern calls for crepe back satin (seriously?) or something matte, and organza or chiffon for the contrast which might be a nice touch. But, I was out of organza, and I hate sewing with chiffon (its like Jello).

This is rated advanced and they really mean it! I thought it would be relatively simple without the flower, but that pleated ruffle really caused me some trouble. It also hides a tricky little side panel that is covered by the ruffle.

As for instructions, they are brief at best. They didn't help me with anything that I couldn't have figured out on my own, but maybe I'm just bitter because they didn't really have enough illustrations to clarify. The ruffles are pictured to the left

The party was nice (funeral directors! who would have guessed) The food was really good (cannoli was TDF) and the company was nice.

More about those ruffles and corners later. For now I am getting back to another fur collared winter jacket.

Marfy 1980:

I have a couple of fox pelts that have been in my stash for years, and some creamy sage paisley chenile-ish fabric which will be all nice and cozy.

Quilt Festival Finds!

2010-11-08T06:43:00.005-06:00

Good thing I have done a bit of sewing and whittled down my stash lately, I really scored this weekend!

That TDF marbled silk is from a guy out of Austin and it will make a stunning sleeveless shell to go with darn near anything! It especially looks good with that navy plaid that I am going to make a skirt out of. I want to use that McCall's pattern and make the sides and the backflap on the bias.
http://www.cosetteoriginals.com

I also hit up the Kia scissors booth and had to fight my way through the crowd. I bought a pair of micro-serrated scissors that I can't wait to try on that silk, and a new rotary cutter for leather.

I also found my favorite European Textiles importer again and did some serious stashing. I grabbed a nice long skirt (under the

scissors in the pic above) this fabulous silky cotton shirting in dark navy and really nice gray plaid with pink. All are the perfect winter weight for Houston winters.

I also grabbed a silk flower necklace that I will share later, and a haul of vintage shell and brass buttons.

Well, got to go for now, I'm supposed to be working...Shhhhh...

A Last at Last!

2010-10-30T11:22:00.003-05:00

First thing this morning (OK, 10 AM) I couldn't wait to see if my first last had lasted!
Its a foot! And an Ankle! Its kind of bumpy, but I don't blame it.
Its also really heavy. I hope that doesn't make it hard to work with. JD asked my why I didn't put a pole down the middle for a handle, kind of like a foot-sicle. I didn't even think of it.

This whole duct tape thing really is doing things the hard way, but taking the form of another shoe wasn't something that I wanted to do, neither was taking an impression directly from my foot (how do you get you foot back).

Now I have to figure out the left foot... The reasons that I haven't just forged ahead are: 1. Some of the tape has gotten loose (perhaps I used to much oil on the inside), 2. Yeah, I kind of ruined my plaster mixing bowl. When I had poured all of the plaster into the form last time, I couldn't put it down or it would collapse with the weight of the plaster. So, by the time the plaster in the form was hard the plaster in the bowl was hard too.

Hey, even though my lasts aren't boot length I may still be able to pull off boots because I took the duct tape and I'm going to use them for a pattern.

Now I have 2 patterns, the ones that I took from the dis-assembled shoes with 1 3/4" heels, and the one from the duct tape.

So pattern makers, how would the pattern for a shoe upper change with the heel height?

Hmmm, stay tuned. I'm going to compare the two and explore the mechanics of shoe pattern making.

An evening of fun with duct tape, olive oil and plaster of paris

2010-10-29T22:09:00.002-05:00

I got the plaster poured in one duct tape cast tonight!

I have spent most of my free time this week staring at those silver things wondering if this had any chance of working.

Of course, you can do anything with duct tape!

Actually, it doesn't hold water very well, especially around the toes and heels.

It also doesn't hold its shape very well after you goop all that plaster into it.

The first part of cast making involves about a half a cup of olive oil to coat the inside of the duct tape. This immediately turned the sticky underside of the tape to goop.

So, I was sitting on the back porch, on a tarp so I didn't have to clean any of the nasty things out of the house tonight. I had my bowl of 4 cups of water, and my 15 lbs of plaster. Its kind of like making gravy, only you stir it with you hand.

I got the 8 cups of plaster mixed in and I had to use my hands to smooth out the lumps get everything stirred in.

Then I held the right form in one hand and poured it out of the pan into the form. I ran out of plaster about 8" from the top, but that was actually OK. This was suprisingly heavy! Then I realized that if I tried to set them down they would collapse. So had to sit the and hold them for 30 minutes. Then it occured to me, am I cementing myself to this? Thank goodness the olive oil that I rubbed in had soaked through and I was fine.

Tomorrow I will start on the left one and see if the right one can still stand.

Shoemaking, Step 2

2010-10-24T14:52:00.010-05:00

Finding a pattern!

As per Mary Wales Loomis's suggestion, I decided to take apart a pair of old shoes for a pattern. This was a challenges since I don't cling to crappy or worn out shoes. I also just purged my closet during my bout with unemployment.

I did manage to dig up a crappy pair of Naturalizers that were an un-natural, wierd green. They are 9 1/2 AA and I normally order a 9 1/2, so they must have been on sale. They are man made uppers (not leather) with leather soles, but I thought I would give them a shot anyways.

Mary was right, this glue that they use isn't meant to come apart, and those little nails are insidious!

But, I have parts!

The weird green shape on the right is the shoe upper that I am using for the pattern. I have sprayed it with water to see if I can flatten it any with a book. I always knew that Principals of Auditing would come in handy.

You will notice that you see a white woven piece that is fused from about mid-arch to the heel. This is the part that is stiffened buckram.

The little U shaped pieces on the right side are called counters and are used to add extra stiffness to the heel area.

Here are more parts:

The far right is the inner sole with a futile attempt at padding, both inside and outside.

Next is the middle sole piece which is like thick oak tag in the heel area and heavy felt towards the toe (the heel is nailed to this).

The next piece is the outer sole. The green crud around the edges show that this is the side that gets cemented to the bottom of upper shoe. The reverse side is what hits the floor when you walk.

On the left is the plastic heel and the metal shanks. The shanks are what hold the angle of the shoe. One end goes on top of the heel and the other extends to the ball of the foot.

I already have quite a few ideas for fabulous shoes.

Of course leather is my first choice so I want over to G H Leather (I 10 and Shepherd in Houston) where they have the most fabulous lamb skin!

The lighter brown (cognac) at the top matches my DB leather trench from last year. I needed more for a belt anyway.

I also got some chocolate (Pantone 19-0912) to make a skirt, and hopefully some shoes. It just happens to match a cobra skin that I picked up at the Tandy Leather Store several years ago.

I also got some black. You can always use more black leather!

As for my first shoe design... In the book she suggests using fabric, esp. for your first pair.

But, I have never been one for the shallow end of the pool. Hey, I have worked with leather before and I think that it will shape and mold better!

Or, I could play it safe and make something like this:

In a gark gray pinstripe that might look really cool, and that twist thing is really in style.

But for now, I am off to find mold soap so that I can pour in my plaster and finish my lasts!

Because I didn't have enough sewing to do...

2010-10-23T11:48:00.007-05:00

Some of you might know that I have picked up a new, exciting direction for my crafty side. Thanks to Joyce at the Sewing Guild meeting I picked up a cute little book by Mary Wales Loomis called "Make Your Own Shoes"

I love this book, in only 86 pages she makes this look so do-able!

The first step is to make a shoe last which is like a dress for for your foot. She shows you two ways to make your lasts. I didn't like either way so I decided to do it the sewers way and make "duct tape doubles" of my feet.

Now, I have never made a DTD so this is entirely new territory for me. One thing that I had to keep in mind was the heel height. The thing about shoe lasts is that you pretty much have to pick a heel height and stick with it. I may regret this later, but I chose "Fundamentals of Finance," and "Good Eats" by Alton Brown for about 3".

One thing that I observed in my first DTD experience, if nothing is going numb you aren't doing it right.

Oh, and pee before you get started. You can get around on duct tape feet but not very well.

I tried 3 different kinds of tape and learned that if you are taping a highly contoured place like your ankles you really need to find some 1" wide tape to hug the curves. I started with the 2" tape and had to clip the curves in several places. The 1" tape which is black worked much better. It is made by "Gorilla" which makes the Gorilla Glue. This tape is much stiffer, heavier and you have to be careful with it because it will stick to everything, permanently!

With some help from my husband that I will never live down

I escaped from my duct tape boots. We managed to cut a slit down the back without out leaving a perforated line on my leg. Then in order to slip them off my feet I put a piece of tape across the bottom of my foot and left a strip about 6" long for a handle off the front of my toes.

The next step is to actually make the models of your feet by pouring plaster of paris in the duct tape forms and let it dry. I will get to that later this weekend.

Then the fun starts and you actually get to start creating shoes! Stay tuned for further information...

MMmmmmm, Cheesecake

2010-10-09T21:10:00.002-05:00

It was really, really good!

At least my office thought so.

Yes I am a push over, one for his office and one for mine.

People kept asking me about a birthday they missed. Can't someone just bake for the fun of it? If you never practice then you will never know!

There is a secret to perfect office baking, secure your hair! I have never known anyone to find a 2 foot long blonde hair, or cat hair but would I if they did? I remember eating a good "made with loving hands at home" and finding a hair in it and it has made me hugely paranoid.

As for sewing, I didn't get any done today for the garden and running errands. Tomorrow I am blowing most of my day in a drunken haze cheering my fool head off at the Texans game.

So, I really wanted to just show off the cheesecake and beg for a good pumpkin cheesecake recipe.

Some cooking

2010-10-06T22:31:00.003-05:00

Sometimes life gets in the way of sewing. This week its been cheesecake! I was invited to a dinner party this weekend as long as I brought cheesecake, raspberry preferred!

So, I got started, but the party was post poned, so its happy cheese cake day at the office tomorrow!

Now, a blouse or two

2010-09-21T22:26:00.004-05:00

I have several fabulous blouse weight silks and I am slowly getting some blouses to wear with those fab new skirts. I just got this gray lace print from EOS, and it will go fabulously with black or day gray. I have really been dying to try this pattern since I got it from the 2009 Marfy catalog.

I have also dug into my old wedding dress fabric and lace stash for some more of those super cute blouses from that free Marfy 0692.

I finished the blue on first and I put a bias binding around the neckline useing the shiny side and it looked horrible. So, I just threw a ruffle on it. Looks fab now. I will post pictures tomorrow

Fun with stripes!

2010-09-19T21:52:00.005-05:00

Am I the only one who finds the most fabulous pinstriped fabrics and can't find the perfect pattern for them? I am just attracted to navy pinstripe, I can't explain it! I finally found a perfect pattern. This is Vogue 1092, and the front takes 13 pattern pieces, but the results are stunning.

This time I even took the time to slip in a secret pocket at the waistband. I am so tired of having to haul my purse everywhere.

The back looks a little bit wonky, but I checked out the rest of the reviews (2!) and the others seem to show the same thing so I dont' feel so bad.

I concentrated on matching the stripes, and forgot that I was cutting on the bias.

Oh well, like Dr. Hank used to say, "If you hear a gasp from the audience you will know what the problem is." He was the theater head when I was in charge of costuming in college and didn't like to hear the drama queens complain. I miss Dr. Hank.

So THATS why I hate silk charmeuse!

2010-09-08T22:32:00.005-05:00

So, over my long weekend I did a little stash diving!

This was inspired by my full sewing room and the hefty bill for auto air conditioner repair!

I immediately grabbed 3 fabulous silk charmeuse pieces that I can wear NOW to marry with my old TNT Marfy 0692 free pattern from 2008. Thanks to Jenny for introducing me to this pattern!

Anyway, I remember now why that stuff sits in my stash and just looks pretty.

Love to wear it, HATE to cut it, sew it or finish it. Its like trying to sew Jello. I did OK until I got around to sewing on the neckline binding with very amaturish results:

I am going to have to get creative, stuff like this is very popular right now.

I have some bias strips left over from the binding that I can just pleat and stitch down to cover the neck binding.

I also have one in cream (left over from some wedding dress) and some lace for the neck edge (from said wedding dress). I also have several prints that I may try.

I have also been working on that skirt and it looks GREAT so I will try to post pictures tomorrow.

One More Skirt!

2010-09-01T21:15:00.005-05:00

Burda "Style" April 2010 skirt 125.

Without the bow. I just wasn't feeling the love for the BOW. It looks super cute, is super easy to wear and adds swing to a professional skirt.

I am also not feeling the love for no pockets, but that saves so much time.

So does no-waistband, but it isn't as much fun to wear.

This is one of those projects that I am probably going to go back to fiddling with.

It cute though, I enjoy wearing it.

Continuing My Skirt Kick

2010-08-28T11:16:00.008-05:00

I have fallen back in love with the ease of skirts!

I love how super easy they are to cut, sew, fit and wear. Not to mention the fact that you can get one out of as little as 3/4 yard of fabric!

Up next is Vogue 1092 Tracy Reese pattern.

I am using the very last piece from my stash from the Houston Quilt Show from 2008. What sounds like an excuse to fabric shopping to me!

I am not crazy about the length, I would prefer either above or below the knee so I will start by adding a couple of inches.

Meeow...

2010-08-23T21:24:00.004-05:00

I asked for it, I got it!
Finally, a personal fashion statement that doesn't contain a YAWN!

This is Burda #108 from last month. It is the perfect use for that stunning EOS silk jersey (said Tahari).
Now I could have picked something sensible like a Jalie top, but that wouldn't have looked any less cougar (mid life crisis). I won't wear this any less than I would have worn the top.

Besides, I literally cut this out yesterday at about 4PM, and I am going to wear it tomorrow.

I want this skirt

2010-08-15T22:26:00.005-05:00

For sometime after I have at least one dress that fits me, and probably a blouse,

I really want this skirt. I love the leather waistband, and that buckle is more like a purse fastner.

I was considering this Burda pattern: http://www.burdafashion.com/fr/Magazines/Archives_des_magazines/103_Jupe/1270777-1463237-1711888-1711893-1711941.html

Only God creates life

2010-08-15T20:09:00.005-05:00

The wonderful news is that my Early Girl Tomato lived up to her name and sprouted blossoms! (in the red circle)

She has easily doubled in size in 2 weeks! Most of the others are growing well too, so I think I will have a good crop in a few months.

The tiny baby blossoms won't become fruit in this awful heat, but it is a very encouraging start.

I am very thoroughly puling weeds and watering every night, but actual fruit is completely up to God.

Marfy 1659 Finally!

2010-08-11T21:12:00.004-05:00

I am finally done with the shirt.

Even though I really don't like the picture, I posted the review anyway.

It look perfect with my Regan necklace, which I got more compliments on than the shirt! It really does look fabulous, I can't thank you enough.

Anyway, on to whats next.

I am off to trace more BWOF's. I am loving the skirts, esp. the bubble skirts, I could actually wear one here. I was thinking about this pattern in dark silk jersey from EOS:

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=53065

Or would that look too aging cougar? I refuse to wear clothes that have "denial" written all over them.

I had such high hopes for v8280

2010-08-08T21:59:00.005-05:00

I don't hate it, I think that I can make it work.

I am just disapointed, I had really high hopes for this pattern.

The pattern photograph of the view I am working on is the one on the right, and 26 rave reviews on http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/reviewgallery.pl

Pattern Review can't be wrong, can they?

That centerfront dart helps, and making the shoulders more square helped too. I just can't figure out how to fix those shoulders! Once I get that worked out I will see how the sleeves look.

Do you think maybe lowering the arm hole will help?

It looks like the back neck fits OK, maybe I just need to make the 'flanges' wider by ....

I don't know, I am tired of thinking about it.

Any suggestions?

My New Babies!

2010-08-01T20:17:00.003-05:00

I may have picked the very HOTTEST weekend of the year, but I got some sunshine and I planted some tomatoes!

This picture is from Saturday night, before I picked up 3 more bags of potting soil at Sam's Club in order to plant the last 3 little dears. I should start picking fresh, juicy homegrown tomatoes by the end of September. Sometimes I really love texas! Up north we never would have imagined home grown salads on Thanksgiving, and with any luck we won't have a hard freeze before then.

Now, for the details. I have 1 yellow plant, 3 heritage Paul Robeson's which should have purple-ish tomatoes, an Early Bird, an Arkansas Traveler (beefsteak tomatoes), 2 plants with Italian tomatoes and the last one was called Sunmaster which is supposed to grow well in the hot sun.

Now I just need to remember to water them on the off chance that it doesn't rain every other day.

Stay tuned for more on "'Mater Watch 2010"

The Marfy 1659 Dress/Shirt saga continues on and on...

2010-07-29T06:48:00.007-05:00

I did get some sewing done last weekend, I spent a lot more time than I expected just doing the hong kong finish on the seams. It sure is easier if you haven't sewn the shirt together yet!

As you can see below, I used the seam binding to finish the edge of the neckline, and I stitched it down about 1" from the edge. I finished the back of the collar by turning it to the inside of the collar and handstitching it closed.

I bound the seams of the armholes and the side seams as well. I used silk organza as an underlining for a little body and opacity. It works perfectly, but boy does it make the SA's itch!

This only leaves the finishing of the sleeve hems, the buttons and buttonholes and the hem.

You would think that would be easy to finish those few things, but I plan on planting my fall garden this weekend and I am not sure about the hem length yet.

In the mean time, not finishing the last project hasn't kept me from stashing!

I have a fabulously soft navy wool plaid for a skirt, and a luscious animal silk jersey from EOS.

Marfy 1659 hem and buttons

2010-07-06T22:08:00.006-05:00

This is getting so close that I am actually starting to get excited about it!

I didn't actually sew, I just pressed and hunted for buttons...

I know that it is getting close to bed time, so here is a quick pic:

I pressed up the belt, and pinned up the hem for a quick idea. Jury is still out, but I am leaning towards an inch or so shorter, and curved up at the sides.

I also pawed through the buttons quickly, and these are the ones that I am leaning towards these:

Liberty of London (LOL!)

2010-07-06T20:21:00.003-05:00

I am trying to add a link, I have never been able to get it to work before. If not, http://www.liberty.co.uk/ might work.

Here it is in another color.

It isn't a border print, but it looks like it is in that picture. One mild (really, REALLY mild) suggestion that I might make to them is better pictures, kind of like EmmaOne Socks.

I probably won't get any more sewing done tonight, it is our really busy week at work so I didn't get home from work until 7:30. I will see if I can at least pin it up and check the hem.

I have been thinking about leaving the length and maybe putting on some belt carriers and a belt. Or maybe just the carriers since it has the illusion of a belt. Carriers with cool buttons of course.

My right brain plays with sewing all day while my left brain plays with accounting.

Marfy 1659 TOP

2010-07-06T07:37:00.003-05:00

I like this better!

It needs to be shortened and I am going to try it with a shirt tail hem.

I am also thinking about lining the peplum.

A belt would help too.

I like the texture, and the pintucks!

This will be a very nice blouse.

Happy Independence Day!

2010-07-05T20:36:00.004-05:00

I rounded out the Holiday by sipping a gin (Beefeater) martini while watching Inspector Lewis and ordering from Liberty of London!

Have you seen their new fall fabrics?!

This is not you grandma's Liberty of London!

I am actually thinking of making one of those bubble skirts out of this and wearing it with a cute little heather blue sweater.

I also got some sewing done.

Remember that white and gold dress that I wasn't thrilled with? Well, it will make a really cute white top. I will post new pictures later. I made the waist band narrower by 3/8", and cut the peplum 8" long.

This added more shape, and the curved shirt tail hem is much more slimming!

Or, maybe that was the gin... who knows!

Marfy 1659 progress!

2010-06-20T22:16:00.004-05:00

I am really starting to like this!

I fixed the collar, raised the waist and set the sleeves.

I raised the waist by and inch, which means that I only lowered it by 1" instead of 2. I think that is looks more in proportion with the new waist.

I also straightened out the collar by shortening it on the side that was about 3/8" too long (how did I do that?!).

I am still not sure about the gold in the skirt, dh just thinks that it looks strange.

hhmmmm...

The sleeves are supposed to have gathers and thick bands, I am not sure if the will be long enough, or how it will look.

I also need to make the facing for the front and post pictures of how I am finishing that wonderful neckline.

I will post pictures as I progress...

Calvin Klein Shirtdress Refined

2010-06-20T21:44:00.009-05:00

Remember my Nordstrom's find from last week?

Its the one with the fabulous details, and the great price.

Anyway, I tried to wear it Thursday, I really did! But, it wasn't lined and I couldn't very well wear it with hose. I just couldn't bring myself to do it! 30+ years of sewing has spoiled me.

I had to either line it or make a slip. Isn't lining something just making a slip and attaching it? I refuse to be one of those girls walking around with 2" of slip showing!

The problem with lining it is all those fabulous details. You will notice that the waistline is double topstitched, there are beltloops and a side zipper. My only options are to undo the topstitching and sew it to the waist seam, or hand stitch it. Considering there was a pretty good golf game on TV, I decided to hand stitch it.

I made the pattern for the lining by folding it in half side seam to side seam, pinning the side seams to each other. Then I just laid the tracing paper on top, and traced my seam line by following the little white spots of the pinheads.

I gave it a little extra room for darts (pleats) for fitting.

Because the fabric has 2% lycra, and my lining is Ambiance with no stretch, I cut the lining on the bias. This gives it just enough extra ease to be comfortable, and takes care of the stress at the seam cause by the stretch of the fabric.

Because I didn't want to re sew all that topstitching I decided to stitch it by hand.
I spent about 2 hours of the golf game making 3/8" stitches from the side zipper, around the waist to to the other zipper tape. I am so glad that I got the lining in, and I hope the seam holds up to wearing.

I plan to wear this tomorrow, so I will let you know!

Nordstrom's Find

2010-06-16T21:27:00.007-05:00

In my quest for the perfect dress pattern, I have been popping in and out of stores trying on things at lunch. I have tried on so many different things that my head spins.

But then, I stopped into The Rack, and the least likely candidate just harmonized some how. It is a solid brown cotton shirt dress from Calvin Klein that was on sale for $54. It didn't make me want to run back in the dressing room and hide!

OK, the color is more flattering than this picture shows, but I would never have imagined that this would look so good on me!

It has a 2" hem which I may let out, what do you guys think?

I also really need to put some kind on lining in the skirt since I refuse to make a slip.

But if that looks good on me, this BWOF from January 2008 might too:

What color? Dark denim with good topstitching? Dark red?

There is hope for this dress as well:

Marfy 1659 basted...

2010-06-13T21:41:00.004-05:00

As promised...

I did get it together, but it still needs work. This really is the best picture out of about 20.

I added 2" to the length of the bodice, and I think that if I raise the waist line 1" it will look better.

Yeah, I know that the collar is crooked, but the top fabric looks great! I am not sold on the bottom fabric, it may look a bit poofy. I will see if it relaxes a bit before I consider ditching it.

As for the look on me...

Well, we walked again this evening, and we got out our new 12lb medicine ball which is my new best friend. I also broke out my old pilates ball to sit on while doing crunches and twists while holding my new best friend. Hey, if I can lose 2" off of my hips in less than a month why can't I take 2" off of my waist!?

Happy Sunday!

2010-06-13T09:32:00.004-05:00

Good news! Since I have started walking with dh, I have only lost 1 lb, but I have lost 2" from my hips and 1/2" from my waist.

I have been working on my shirtdress and I finally got it all cut out, all the pieces and all the layers. What made it so time consuming and so fun was those little pintucks. It looks so even and so easy at first glance, but when I started laying it out I realized that its going to be a pain to match!

First, there are 5 stripes in one direction and 3 in the other. You can also see from the faint underneath side that the stripes have more of an angle on the top layer than the bottom! I cut some of the pieces single layer like the front and the collars. I didn't worry as much about the sleeves and the back. In order to match the back perfectly I would have had to put a seam down the middle and I didn't want to do that.

I do have the the bodice and the skirt sewn together, today I hope to put all the collar pieces and rig something together for the facing. I also need to get the waist and skirt sewn to the bodice so I can get a clearer picture of the fit.

"Sew Something you Love"...

2010-06-09T06:50:00.008-05:00

You've got that right Debra! When you look into your closet, what do you grab first? I have been missing dresses so much lately, they are so easy for busy mornings and so cool for hot days.

So, I grabbed a go-to pattern (one of the Marfy's that I have been dyeing to try, some fabulous fabric and started cutting.

This is the shirt dress Marfy 1659. I am making the top out of a sweet criss-cross pintucked white cotton, and the skirt out of laminated metallic silk/cotton herringbone (both from EOS of course).

I would like to take credit for the mix, but I was out shopping with my boss (yes, I love my job) and she suggested this at Ann Taylor Loft:

You seamstresses will understand why this didn't work out. As cute as it is (love those pleats), it is made out of this awefull acetate-nylon feeling stuff that itched like crazy! Oh yeah, and it is about 6" too short!

I think that the Marfy neckline, skirt and fit will look much better on me!

Muslins, muslins

2010-05-29T21:43:00.013-05:00

I had such high hopes for a 3 day weekend, and I did get some sewing done.
I got more naps, and some cooking, but I didn't even really do any sewing until today.

I have started my exploration of dressmaking by actually making a muslin... thank goodness.

This is Vogue 1183 (I can't get the link to work). It really doesn't work on me, not even close! Even in a different color, the cut isn't going to work.

I got to leave work early Fri. and picked up some great fabric at High's and I think that I will use with this other dress pattern. The pattern is Vogue 8280 which has gotten rave PR reviews.

So, should I go ahead and cut it out with that blue wool/silk blend for the skirt (3/4 yd remnant), and that fabulous gold and cream cotton for the top?

Or should I make an ugly muslin in gray wool that has no body or shape that makes just about everything look horrible?

Even when I weighed 50 lbs less I could never wear all one color head to toe; it always looked horrible so I really think that it more to do with my height than weight.

Oh, I have one more muslin in the works. It is a trench-dress that Kay Y traced and sent me from one of her early 2000's BWOF. This is the top:

the skirt will be A-Line, and I plan on making it out of a dark red cotton twill instead of this too-crisp linen...

A SKIRT Marfy 2253

2010-05-02T19:33:00.002-05:00

For the first time in about 5 years (and 15 lbs) I started on a skirt today!

This is Marfy 2253 which is one of the free patterns from this years catalog.

Before you think that I am going too uptown, I am using denim! I thought that the yoke front lent itself to the denim look. I am using a dark brown espresso colored denim with 2% lycra from EOS. I have spent days looking for the perfect starter skirt pattern, and I chose this because it will give me freedom of movement and let me get used to working with denim before I start working on jeans.

One question, do you think that one would really be able to get it on and off through that button placket? I guess if I can't I could always sneak in a side zipper.

Before you ask, I am not lining it! I am underlining it so that it doesn't cling to my legs and twist when I walk.

I am also considering a dress *gasp* Do I even remember how to wear a dress? Do I want to? I really see myself as a bit more glamorous than I dress at the moment, and at my new job (with the professional shoe collectors) it is socially acceptable.

Here is one to consider, Vogue 8280 which supposedly looks great on all figure types:

Have you ever noticed that this claim is either made by someone trying to sell a dress, or someone who allready looks like a supermodel!

Finally Finished! Marfy 2155

2010-04-27T21:44:00.007-05:00

Finally done and reviewed! I love the shirt, it feels very pretty to wear, and the fabric is such a caress.

Can't you see that I have already splashed salad dressing on it? The first time that I wore it Arrggg.

I was going to get the buttons on 1885 as well, but it is 9:45! Where does the time go?

Tomorrow night is ASG, so no sewing then either. But, I am working on a knit shirt. I have been waiting for the perfect fabric to make vogue 2980:

That beautiful knit that I just picked up would be perfect so I started laying it out and I ran out of fabric! I read the fabirc requirements, just not the width! I can either use a different piece (like the black and tan at the bottom here:

I tried to find my Vogue 2925 with no luck, but on the bright side, I did find my Burda jeans pattern.

Reality Check after a rough weekend

2010-04-19T09:27:00.003-05:00

I spent most of my weekend nursing a sinus infection. by that I mean sitting on the couch playing with my laptop and avoiding housework.

I did go out once on Sunday and since I had to go to the grocery store I insisted on running by Hancock's and grabbing this pattern (Vogue 1167):

Fabulous fabric should be coming from EOS on Wednesday.

Anyway, my big reality check is that May starts in a couple of weeks, then comes June. What happens in June is that I turn 40!

How am I going to celebrate you ask...

So many options: London, Paris or New York City?

Actually, I am going to Iowa, Des Moines Iowa. What is the occasion you ask... My stepson is getting married again. He can't get married in some exotic location like HI where he lived for a couple of years, he has to get married in Iowa!

So, what does the step mother of the groom wear to a 4th wedding in Iowa?

More Stash!

2010-04-11T22:03:00.002-05:00

I broke down and went fabric shopping today. I originally went for buttons but I didnt' see anything that I liked better than what I allready have.

So, in order to not waste the trip, I picked up this pretty silk jersey (little thin, but nice) for a top. It will nook nice with brown or khaki pants.

I also found some super soft Sea Island Cotton knit in a dear soft blue so I got enough for 3 Tshirts.

They also had the best black denim with a soft firm texture and only 2% stretch denim, so I got 4 yards of that. I really want to make a black jeans jacket and some cool black jeans.

As for that shirt, I spent about an hour writing my review, so remember *really helpful*. I still have to get pics with the buttonholes and buttons, once I get them done. So I should get it posted by about Wednesday...

Is is just me or does the entire weekend get wasted grocery shopping, cooking and cleaning?

Little quality time with BWOF

2010-04-08T21:30:00.005-05:00

It really has nothing to do with saving the ozone layer and everything to do with the hour that it takes to drive the 14 miles from my new job to my house.

So, today I rode the Metro bus.

The trip was nice this morning. I took a selection of BWOF's and Marfy 2155 to pin the sleeve in. The bus left right as I got out of my car, but that gave me time to use the ATM to put money on my little bus pass card and talk with my fellow riders. Anyway, it took me an hour to get to work on the bus instead of spending the hour in traffic.

The ride home was worse, it took 2 hours.

To make a long story short, I got to thumb through part of my box of vintage BWOF's that I am "storing" for my dear friend Peggy.

The ladies in my office wear skirts so I am feeling the pressure. I stumbled across this beauty from August 2007, how cute would that be in a subtle stripe!

I never would have come across this without my cross town bus trip.

As for it being worth $6.50, the jury is out.

Ooh so cute Marfy 2155

2010-04-07T20:58:00.005-05:00

Love the sleeve, love the collar! Once again, Marfy bliss.

Now, if only I weren't gone 12 hours a day and I had time to finish it.

It just goes to show ya', be careful what you wish for!

I cut about 1" out of the bottom of the "legs" of the sleeve pants:

The armhole seam was reduced to about 3/8 to 1/2 inch which helps it fit my shoulders and arm better.

I also took some better pictures of the sleeve assembly just in case you didn't understand my explanation:

No, I just need to pick out some buttons. It would be nice if I could find some pink plastic to match. I may see what the store has this weekend.

I am working some hellacious hours at work, but it is rewarding. It's mentally challenging and analytical which is right up my alley and I am surrounded by wonderful people. It is exactly what I was looking for and I am exhausted but I love it.

Twist sleeve 2155

2010-03-30T22:12:00.007-05:00

I am making progress!

I really like the collar. Its banded and curved, unlike a couple of their shirts that I have sewn lately.

I figured out how to sew the sleeve on, but I think that I will be happier if I take some of the fullness out of it.

As for the construction, I was looking at it while having a glass of wine one evening, and it occurred to me that this is just like a pair of pants with the legs tied together.

I doubled the fabric so that the hem wouldn't show, so it has a center front and center back seam which I sewed first.

Then I sewed what would be the inseams and the out seams. The only seams that you have left open are the waistband and the hems.

The waistband seam gets sewn to the top of the armhole. The legs of the pants wrap around each other, then you gather where the hems would be, and sew them into the armhole under where the waistband is sewn.

My thoughts from looking at the picture is that the tie part is a little bulky. I did double the fabric when the pattern doesn't tell you to, so I might go back and take the second layer out. I could also help this by making the "legs" of the sleeve narrower, so I don't know what I will do.

The fabric is just a bit sheer so I added the yoke, and doubled the center front piece.

I am glad that I took the picture of the back... you can see my strap...

Not that I can do anything about that now, but it is nice to know.

Marfy 2155 progress, aka the thrill of sheer fabrics.

2010-03-24T22:22:00.004-05:00

After a long, hard day at work, the last thing that I want to do is come home to sew those convoluted, unpredictable patterns! I love my Marfy's, straight out of the envelope with no muslin, no re-cutting, little guessing or letting it out later.

This is the fabulous twist sleeve shirt that I posted earlier.

I took this earlier, I also have the collar sewn on but didn't wait to take the picture. It is a stylish one with long lines and a tight neck curve. I might make this again in white just for the collar.

Because of the sheer nature of the fabric, I created a back yoke pattern by folding the pattern straight across the back right at the side back seam.

I will get the collar finished then maybe even the sleeves. The armhole looks encouraging, it doesn't gap or bag.

For tonight, I am ready to rest up for work tomorrow. Working with bright pink soft, smoothe fabric is good relaxation.

I can breathe again!

2010-03-23T21:41:00.007-05:00

Finally, I can breathe and eat again!

Funny thing about this test, my strongest section was the essay section. I passed an accounting test because of my writing skills.

Oh yeah, and 2 years of PMS is finally over.

It was such a beautiful day for it, apparently there is a bright yellow, warm thing in the sky. Hmmm, not all accountants burst into flames in direct sunlight.

My sweet husband brought me flowers and chocolate:

For some reason, it reminds me we're almost out of vodka.

I got back to working on my Marfy shirts. I am on 2155 'cuz the thread is pink.

Because the fabric is quite thin I am doubling the center front and I made a back yoke. I will try to get it far enough together that I can post a picture this week.

2010-03-23T06:02:00.002-05:00

I passed, I passed, I passed, I PASSED! 75, 80, 80, 76!

I just have to take a couple of months and take the ethics exam, finish my work experience paperwork and figure out how I am going to celebrate!

No studying, no job applications, just sewing.

2010-02-27T21:44:00.008-06:00

For some reason, I always put in one sleeve just fine, but the other one looks like it was sewn in by an inebriated monkey! This is just a basting so I will be ripping out and resewing the funky one. I also need to add some structure to the shoulders which will lift and smooth under my arms.

The funky one is on the left side.

The sleeves have also not been pressed yet and it will look better when I have lost 10 lbs, but that is what it is for now.

All in all, I had a nice first Saturday. First I got a haircut, then on the way to the fabric store I stopped at Katz's Deli for a spinach omelet on my way to the fabric store. I only picked up some nice shirting, but I found some of that really sweet navy pinstripe fabric that perfectly matches some pants fabric that I picked up in Atlanta years ago.

Oh yeah, I have been sewing!

2010-02-19T20:47:00.004-06:00

I actually did get a little bit of sewing done before I got sick...

I like the shape of the collar really well. I am still not happy with that shoulder seam. I know that it has to do with that funky point where the collar is sewn to the shoulder seam. In hind sight, I should have been more careful and traced the seam allowance, then clipped the corner. This is way to easy to do with Marfy's, but I didn't.

I also really, REALLY need to drop at least 10 lbs, but I am on the way down instead of up.

I think that a really good shoulder line will help with this, but making a note at this point can't hurt.

I extended the front band by 2 1/2", and I will see how it looks closer to its original length.

I also need to tweak that center front because there is a little too much curve to the seam.

Congratulate me! Vacation is over, for now.

2010-02-19T19:27:00.006-06:00

I start Wednesday as a temp with the people that most enjoyed interviewing with! I am just a temp for now, and they don't make any promises, but they CALLED ME!

Now for the important details:

I am going to renew my membership at the gym first thing tomorrow! The gym is right down the street from "the office" :-B and the best way to beat rush hour is to leave the house at 6AM while it is still a 20 min. drive, go to the closest gym and work out (before you talk yourself out of it) then shower and get ready for work while everyone else is stuck in traffic.

2nd important detail, I am going to wear my Marfy 1458 and one of those new pairs of pants that I am now determined to finish this weekend.

This picture doesn't show the darting details like this:

I have 3 pairs of pants from July BWOF most of the way assembled. I tried them on this afternoon and the good news is that they need to be taken in instead of let out. The other good news is that they don't all have the waistbands sewn on yet. They are lined pants so I don't need to tell you guys how much trouble it is to alter lined pants!

Marfy 1245 Fitting

2010-02-12T21:12:00.005-06:00

When you look at this from a sewing construction perspective, it is actually pretty tricky. But, Marfy has never designed for the faint of heart.

The front band isn't just inserted into the seam like trim, it is sew to the front before the yoke (and trim) are sewn on. Also, for the front facing I cut the center and inner front, but the top facing (pattern is included) only extends to the edge of the inner front.

But, I did decide to do the topstitching. It looked too boring without it.

I sewed it with emboidery floss by machine. It was tricky to get the tension and stitch length right, and my machine complained loudly every stitch of the way but I'm happy. I sure hope that The Swiss don't hold a grudge, I owe my elna a drink.

I know that it looks tight in the hips and I will let it out, but my hips are simply too big. The back needs support in the form of padding as well as the hips let out. Another thing that sucks about topstitching is that the seams are set once you stitch them.

1245 Jacket progress

2010-02-12T09:11:00.007-06:00

I finally got to JoAnn's for some embroidery thread for topstitching, but they didn't have any Tiger Tape. Since I didn't want my topstitching to look as bad as my handwriting, I put it through the needle of my sewing machine. I know that I am probably not suposed to do that, and the machine doesn't like it but it seems to work.

I am just not sure if I like it. The optical illusion that it creates is kind of crooked and it kind of makes me crazy.

I also got my fabric for the Marfy 2155 blouse and I think that it will look fabulous! I just have to decide how to pre-shrink it, it is cotton but I don't want to lose any of the sheen by washing it.

Marfy 2155 Sleeve Challenge

2010-02-09T09:48:00.005-06:00

I really love these sleeves!

I got the pattern yesterday expecting them to look like the famous Simplicity knit twist top that has been reviewed over a hundred time, but they don't!

The matching points are pretty well marked. A, B, C and D line up on the back of the pattern and the back of the sleeve in descending order; and A, E, H and D line up down the front of the sleeve. I think I can figure this out, but it is definitely going to take a sleeve muslin! My biggest concern is that their sleeves are often tight on me because I carry quite a bit in my upper arms.

To topstitch or not?

2010-02-06T14:33:00.009-06:00

Remember this jacket? I do, barely. I started it for the "Wool" contest on PR sometime last year.

For the last couple of weeks I have been caught up in trying to pass my last certification test, so no sewing and no blogging. Last night I couldn't stand it anymore so I pulled it out of the bag, ironed the pieces and got back to work.
I decided that instead of beating my self up designing some weird lower front facing I just cut out 2 more of the center front and middle front pieces and be done with it. I also cut the lining out of silk charmeuse, and I made the sleeves solid black and white instead of solid black like the trim. I may trim the end of the sleeves in black if it seems lacking...

Now I have the pieces of the lower body sewn together, and I am wondering how some heavy topstitching would look.

The topstitching on the pattern looks really nice. I would definitely do it by hand in a heavy black embroidery thread using Sewyld's technique from her Marfy 1444, her results are so impeccable!

I am just not sure how it would look on this fabric, its a really sharp birdseye that looks kind of like a cross:

I welcome suggestions and topstitching tips!

FIRST Marfy 2010 TDF!

2010-01-16T22:00:00.003-06:00

This is the first absolutely must have, to die for pattern from the new 2010/11 catalog!

I saw a shirt with a sleeve like that once. I really, really wanted to see how it was made, but I learned a long time ago that asking to see someones shirt can be mis-interpreted.

I must say that they have really out done themselves this year. Not only did I receive my catalog on the day that it was supposed to be released, but they have really stepped up to the edge of fashion. They are doing very imaginative things with sleeves and jackets. I can pass on the full, flowing pants and anything adding volume to the hips, but there are certainly enough appropriate things to keep me busy until next January.

They even have a free jacket, blouse and skirt to keep me busy until this shirt pattern arrives.

Marfy 1079 Collar

2010-01-06T21:02:00.007-06:00

Whew, that was harder than I thought it would be! But then if I waited to start a project until I had everything worked out I wouldn't have anything to wear. I referred to the previous PR reviews extensively, and it worked out pretty well.

Of course I still need to sew the inside down but I think that I will do that by hand.

In picture to the right, the facing on the right side of the picture has been sewn down. The collar is actually one piece folded in half with both sides gathered seperately as pictured below. I stitched the outside down all the way across, and the upper collar is sewn into the facing seam and will be stitched down (with the seam allowance turned to the inside) by hand.

I will post a picture of the inside when I am done, for now I am going to go mix a drink!

I still have to decide what kind of sleeves I want.

Marfy 1079

2010-01-04T08:53:00.006-06:00

Now that I am done with 1895 and quite happy.

I am moving on to Marfy 1079 which is an old one from around 2006, but it is still available on the Marfy website (Autumn 06/07).

I am making this in cotton twill shirting in medium blue that looks just a touch irridescent because of the twill.

This doesn't really go with the style of the sleeves so I am going to take out some of the fullness near the cuffs and probably put traditional cuffs on it. I just don't like the ruffle at the end of the sleeve, it tends to drag through everything you eat.

I wonder how it would look if you kept the upper and lower bands and just got rid of the ruffle at the end.

It might look fuller and hold its shape better if I put a facing behind the bubble, and put on a wider cuff.

Oh well, I might work on the body of the shirt and mess with the sleeves when I can try it on and see them in context.

Just something to think about while on my morning walk...

Suitings Bought by Touch

2010-01-02T17:19:00.005-06:00

I have well calibrated fingers. After decades of hanging out in fabric stores, I can pick out the 150 thread count wool cashmere blend with my eyes closed. Fabirc shopping by braille has resulted in some strange color choices...

The top brown stripe is Pantone 18-0403 which goes with nothing. Funny story though, I got the original piece in 2003 and made a really nice pair of pants but no jacket. A couple of years later, the rest of the bolt magically reappeared at the fabric store so I bought 2 yds for a jacket. By the time I got around to making the jacket I had outgrown the pants... Now it is stranded in my stash.

The purple on the left is an incredibly soft fabric that I have 1 3/4 yds of that goes with nothing. I envisioned a lovely suit-dress, or spring jacket with gray pants, but the grays are too dark, and I can't find any more for a skirt. Its Pantone 19-2514 with a shadow stripe woven in.

The fabric on the right is from the Houston Quilt Show in 2008. It is actually olive green (Pantone 17-6206) Wool Cashmere blend that feels incredible. This fabric will probably become pants shortly. If nothing else, I can wear them with a white shirt!

No more shopping with my eyes closed!

Shirting Stash addition du-jour

2010-01-02T13:26:00.004-06:00

I was out for more silk organza yesterday and they had some nice shirting remnants. They are pretty nice pieces, but short:

The top cotton shirting is twill, 1 1/8 yd of 60". This should be enough for a summer shirt.

The bottom cotton is a beautiful white jacquard with green stripes. 1 1/2 yd of 60" which is enough for long or short sleeved.

The aqua on the right is another piece that I unburried. It is cotton shirting w/touch of lycra.

Shirting Stash

2009-12-27T22:56:00.005-06:00

More shirt fabrics from my stash:

The top fabric is a fabulous, beefy silk jersey from EOS. There is enough for a long sleeve top.

2nd is silk charmeuse from Universal Fabrics in Rice Village in Houston. It was the lining for Vogue 1126, and there is enough left for maybe a short sleeve shell.

The purple with the gray dots on the left is silk charmeuse 45" - 1 1/2 yds for a silk lining.

On the right bottom corner is a substantial silk twill from EOS, I think I have 2 yds of 55".

Top of the second picture is fabulous, light silk twill from EOS. It also has some pink in it, but a huge repeat. I think that I have 2 yds of 60".

Next is a light weight silk jersey in black and beige. I have about 2 yds of 45"

One more group of solid-ish cotton shirtings. Left to right"

White twill with a diagonal line woven in from Farmhouse Fabrics. 2 yds of 60"

Pink birds eye from Universal Fabrics 1.75 yds.

Red fine check from Universal 1.5 yds.

Dark red irridescent from Universal. 2 1/2 yds of 60"

Black and white Irridescent from Universal 2 1/2 yds of 60"

Yay! New Marfy free patterns for 2010

2009-12-23T11:58:00.004-06:00

Marfy posted the images of their free patterns included in the upcoming 2010 catalog. Love them all, but my favorite outfit is the one right under the Marfy label with the button front skirt and the blouse with the ties at the neckline.

Marfy 1895 Progress

2009-12-21T11:02:00.006-06:00

I like the fit so far, but I am concerned about how high that neck is. I like those shoulders.

I really think those stripes are wild!

It will look good with just about any color, blue jeans and black or gray pants.

There is Marfy 2010 news. Jenni pointed out to me that the cover of the new catalog is available in Italian! They don't have the new free patterns yet, but they can't be far behind.http://www.marfy.it/ita/activenews.asp?idcat=&idart=60050&azione=detailcataloghi&layout=&CID=A151L156L220091221174708PNIRNIPUMMF09721381

I don't think that their links ever work, but if you go to the Italian language site you can follow the link to the cover.

Marfy 1895 - Shirt Love Continues

2009-12-19T22:03:00.011-06:00

For the interesting stripes that need to be seen and heard, you can't go wrong with a Marfy shirt pattern.

I got this fabric from Farmhouse fabric online, and I am in love with those colors and the texture. The fun thing about this fabric is that it doesn't mirror, the pattern goes in one direction then it repeats itself. This made the pattern layout complicated. For the center front I matched it up to the navy and white stripe, I will let you know how that works out. On the upside, who will know if I am wrong?

One thing that I completely gave up on is the back. I could not get all those stripes organized into those 5 sections without it looking like a bar code on acid.

One thing that you will notice here is the subtle contouring and organic shaping of the seam lines. This is part of what makes these patterns so remarkable. They didn't just take a solid back and slash and spread it, the contour lines resemble a pattern that was draped and shaped by hand.

Their collar pattern are interesting as well. They include separate patterns for the inside and the outside of both the collar and the band that allow for the turn of the cloth by 3/8". Other than that they really don't have much curve to shape to the shirt. The collar band and the bottom edge of the collar are both really straight! I will see how I like it, then I may recut it.

The Upside of Sewing: Stash of Dreams

2009-12-16T18:23:00.013-06:00

I love fabric shopping! It is better than going out and buying clothes because you get that shoppers high from the fabric, the pattern and even the buttons.

I just love good fabric, the softness, the texture and the pretty colors.

This section starts with a blue and brown check which I love but goes with nothing else.

Aqua and gray stripe cotton from EOS (less than 1 1/2yd)

Pink, blue and white fairly heavy with cross grain stretch.

Wide stripe yellow and blue, summer weight w/slight jacquard.

Pink and gray stripe that I have laid out for a shirt already (one of those Marfy's, 1895)

I am not just showing off, I am putting pictures in a place where I can find them so that when I am looking for inspiration, or new fabric, I can just look here and see what I have.

Next Section,

More blue than you can stand!

Still more blue, noticing a trend?

The top is a super sweet twill that I got from Farmhouse, it won't be stash long.

Second is actually pique like a birdseye.

Last is a silk/cotton blend that I think is 50/50. It is super soft and a touch sheer so I will have to deal with that. Maybe I will put pin tucks in a bib front or a yoke.

I will post more later. I am suprised by the challenge of getting good fabric pictures, my hats off to the professionals!

The Downside of Sewing

2009-12-13T21:29:00.005-06:00

Sorry this looks funky, I still have a hard time formatting here...

The downside is the distance between that shirt in your imagination and that shirt on your body:

In my imagination it looked more like the Tory Burch Stevie shirt http://www.toryburch.com/toryburch/browse/productDetail.jsp?icProduct=3 1091127&icSort=&icCategory=104#

In defense of the shirt, I have used this pattern before, and it was almost this unflattering at this point. But, I get so many compliments on its sort sleeved summer version:

I will get the long, cuffed sleeves on, then work on the neckline. This fabric is so unbelievably comfortable that I just might have to finish this, then see what I can do to make it flattering.

I think that I need to take it up at the shoulders so it isn't sagging in front. I will start there, then see what you think again.

Getting there...

2009-12-08T17:37:00.003-06:00

I did a little more fine tuning, and got the waistband on today. In order for me to get any happier with these, I am going to have to lose some of that belly. I did another 2 miles on the treadmill today, so I am getting there.

I really think that I will take these apart and use them as the pattern. I didn't line them and I don't like them that way. They are also almost identical to a cotton pair, go figure.

Be-Fitting the Pants

2009-12-07T17:55:00.008-06:00

I am back to progressive sewing. I finally got the muslin together for July 2009-102. The good news is that I cut a size 46 with 1" side seams, and had to take them in about an inch on each side.

I am not going to fine tune the waist until I get the waist band on, that makes a difference.

I need to fix the lower front crotch and take some of the width out of te back leg, but I think that I can fix both of those problems by taking in the inseam.

I also got to do some coverstitching today! I hemmed some shirts that I have been wearing. Now I can plan what to do next.

My first reaction was to grab whatever was quick and easy, but I think that I will make what I love instead. I really love this summer shirt, so I think I will make one like it for winter in deep red silk jersey from Sarah Veblen.

sigh not worth fighting over

2009-11-18T10:27:00.006-06:00

Don't call me chicken, she bites. You can't actually see her fangs in this picture, but you can see the look in her eyes.

I finally finished *the* shirt. I love the print, I love the neckline. I love the way that this shirt doesn't pull or twist of bag open in the front. I just love these Italian patterns. The wear ability is greatly enhanced by that front yoke piece that extends the shoulder and changes the angle of the front wrap over.

Who do you know that loves what they sew as much as I love my Marfy patterns? They have some kind of Italian magic that subtracts 10 lbs. That is worth the extra money to me. They save me time because I know that they are going to fit!

This makes it garment #4 for my 10 piece wardrobe:

I still have no pants or skirts finished, but I have an interview this afternoon and another one in the morning.

Wish me luck.

Whew! Marfy 1903

2009-11-15T18:50:00.009-06:00

I am making progress on *the* shirt. I sure hope I like it, it seems a bit wild for an interview. In fact, I am not sure where I would wear it. I don't have any flamenco dancing planned. I will have to see how it looks under a jacket.

I have the attachment done on the one easy side, but I still haven't really figured out how I am going to do that on the outside. I am leaning towards a button placket like she suggested.

This is actually much more wearable than it looks. I wore it around the house a bit (mostly trying to get a good photo) and it doesn't seem to gap as much as I thought it would.

Now, I am going to have to bite the bullet ad let the sides of that jacket out so that I can finish these sleeves. I think I am going to have to make cuffs in order to keep sleeve fluff from spilling out.

Good day sewing

2009-11-10T18:16:00.006-06:00

I finished my tuxedo shirt, even if the picture is a little off color and grainy.

I also made progress fitting my jacket:

The shoulder and the sleeves look better. I took about half an inch out of the sleeves, and moved them in (made the shoulders narrower) about 3/8 and inch. I have also gained about 7 lbs in the last month *ugh*.

I still need to steam the sleeve caps and the pleats, but it definitely doesn't hang now. The peplum hangs funny because there is a pin caught on my sleeves.

Marfy 1245 - I am so screwed

2009-11-08T22:26:00.004-06:00

15 pieces for a jacket! *sigh* I wish that I were attracted to easy things!
This doesn't even include everything. I see the front band, but I guess the front and back horizontal bands are overlays.

What do you think?

This is probably going to keep me up at night!

Oh well, I was looking for something to do with my time anyway.

I am done with my cute little blue and white shirt, except for the buttons and buttonholes. I will post pictures when that is done.

As for my gray jacket...

I took the sleeves out, moved them in to make the shoulders narrower and made the sleeves narrower by about 3/8. I have the first sleeve sewn and it does seem to fit better. Peggy told me that that would work, and I knew that was what it needed, I just didn't want to admit it.

Burda 1-2008-107 shirt

2009-11-06T19:52:00.010-06:00

I am making good progess on my next shirt, this would make it 4 since my vacation started!

I actually have sleeves on it, but I need to put the cuffs on.

I like the way that it fits for the most part, even with the jacket:

I think that I am going to lower the front neckline, even if it means recutting (lengthening) the collar.

Other than that, throw on some pearl buttons, those french cuffs and I am DONE.

Then I can move on to that wool jacket, a skirt or some pants.

I guess when I run out of fabric I will have to go back to work.

Good Wednesday Musings

2009-11-04T21:40:00.005-06:00

I finished another garment for the wardrobe contest, Yeah! Wasn't it beautiful out there this morning!

I made progress on another: This is the tuxedo shirt from Burda from January 2008, and the fit is really good! I love the way those stripes line up!

I even had a great greek salad for lunch at Barnaby's with my good friend Peggy.

Then I went to an interview which went well.

Since we are in the zen weather period in Houston and the weather was phenominal this afternoon (like this morning as you can see above), I went home and sipped a margarita on the back porch.

The day couldn't have been any better if I had bought fabric!

Oh wait, UPS came this evening:

That picture does nothing for those colors! I also got some nice basic black suiting.

I will sleep will with visions of silk twill and striped cottong shirting dancing in my head.

Hhmmm - Marfy 1903 closure?

2009-11-02T11:29:00.007-06:00

I have this blouse cut out (except for the facings which are of plain silk twill), and I am thinking through my construction steps. I can't figure out how I am going to close it!

My first instinct is to go with an invisible zipper, but the fabric is a bit too delicate for that, and the curve of the seam would make it a challenge.

The drawing to the right, and the diagram below indicate that you are too use buttons, but Marfy usually includes markings for buttons when they are to be used. If I go with buttons between the 'F' and 'H' markings, I would have to put them on the left side underneath as well as the right side. In other words, the underlay would have to be secured as well as the overlay. I suppose I could do this and have them button to the inside, but that might be a little awkward.

Any suggestions? I have made and worn crossover tops before, and really liked them, but they all had wrap around ties. I suppose I could draft that, but it isn't what I want with this print.

One more change that I think I will make is to put button cuffs on the sleeves. As you can see above, they are designed to have elastic at the wrists, but I don't think that will look very good under a jacket. I am concerned about the fullness of the sleeves as it is, I don't want them sliding up when put my jacket on, or tumbling out from underneath like I am a magician hiding a magic scarf.

More on Vogue 1126 -80% Done

2009-10-29T22:20:00.005-05:00

I did work on this today. I added the padding to the back and it does look better to me. I also took out, and resewed those sleeve caps. I added sleeve heads but they are too small and you can't even tell that they are there.

I improved the collar and the roll line of the lapel just by trimming all the seam allowances. I pressed up the hems on the sleeves, but could go even be shorter.

I haven't forgotten about this, I am just "letting it Breathe" like a fine wine. The sleeves are wearable and comfortable, but I won't be able to wear big flowing sleeves, I need to tone it down a notch.

If you can't tell from my typing, I hasv already taken my sleeping pill so I will be going to bed for now.

For today's interview, we will be appearing in vintage navy pinstripes

2009-10-29T15:09:00.027-05:00

A warm hug from the past, and a resounding testament to hand tailoring.

This is a tailored jacket that I made in 1995 for my life as a "professional." I got the chalk stripe Ralph Lauren wool flannel in Jackson, TN for $50/yard which was outrageous for me at that time. I never dreamed that I would still be sporting this 14 years later for a job interview as an accountant.

Although, it should have been obvious with those navy pinstripes. Seriously, who wears double breasted navy pinstriped suits besides lawyers and accountants.
This started as a skirt, pants and jacket, but the pants were much, much too warm for winters here. Since the skirt was 2 or 3 inches too small by now, I cut the back apart at the side darts and cut a side back panel from the front pieces of the pants. You can barely see it in the picture to the left. I put inverted pleats to the bottom so that I would have more range of motion. They also add to that "I meant for it to look this way" illusion.

I like the whole look with that modern Burda striped red top, very professional. I may lower the hem an inch, and I may not.

The jacket pattern is a DKNY "Semi-fitted lined, below hip double breasted jacket with notched collar, welt pockets, side back seams, back vent, shoulder pads and long 2 piece sleeves with mock vent.

Sewing Musings

2009-10-25T07:29:00.007-05:00

I had a nice touch of spring waiting for me in the mailbox this morning. I love getting packages from Emma OneSock, she seldom disapoints. I am glad that I got the last practical fabric (hah, practical) before she was innundated with Christmas sparkles.

It is fabulous silk jersey which is my biggest vice. This lovely, substantial fabric can't wait until spring. It will be a knock out sweetheart top on any winter rainy day.

Hhmm, good chance of rain tomorrow, and I really can get a shirt done in a day.

As for winter:

There is a new sewing contest about sewing with wool starting November 1. I am thinking about this jacket which is Marfy 1245 in black and white houndstooth or birdseye with black sateen trim. The only thing that I would change is the lower sleeve piece, that just looks awkward.

Or, I could use this: In a normal, plain jacket pattern.

I am going to universal Fabrics this afternoon, I may come home with something completely different.

Good thing I have more than a week to decide!

With Facings

2009-10-23T13:11:00.008-05:00

Since I know that you wanted play by play action...

I like the front, it fits well, and it isn't too tight through the shoulders. I still need to add the structure to the shoulder/back area, but I need more batting for that.

Funny thing about that, I remembered to buy some at Universal, but I only got half a yard and it isn't long enough and I don't want to have to piece it. So, I am going to make it into a bunch of shoulder pads, and get more for the whole shoulder/back pieces.

I am hoping that more shoulder structure will get some of those wrinkles from under my arms.

Speaking of the back:

I really like the fit better since I added a couple of inches to that back belt. I don't know what they were thinking making it too short, but it just looked bad.

I took Jenni's advice and understitched the pleats and they are nice and crisp, even though they pull a little from their basting thread as well.

As for the buttons, I have a few in my stash that will work:

I am actually leaning towards the smaller square ones at the top. I really don't like the great big square ones, but the round ones would work.

What do you think?

I really should go and get more of that batting and get this thing done, but I don't feel like getting out this afternoon.

I had forgotten how much Friday afternoons suck when you are unemployed.

No one wants to talk to anyone new on Fridays. I had an interview last Friday and didn't get a call back for a second interview this week.

Nothing good ever happens on Fridays when you are looking for work.

This just may work out...

2009-10-22T15:11:00.005-05:00

Update on Vogue 1126 jacket: I am not sure about the look of the pockets, and the band could have been moved down even more to lengthen the look.

I haven't padded the shoulders and the back yet, I am hoping that will help that funny wrinkle between the bust point and the side seam. If not, I will try to take it up under the arm and see if that will help.

I really think that I will like it. I will post about what buttons to use as soon as I get the facing sewn on. I have a couple in mind from my stash. The sleeves are pretty comfortable and plenty long. I added 2" because with Vogue, you never can tell.

Something you never say to a Woman

2009-10-22T14:58:00.003-05:00

"You remind me of my Mother" -Car Repair Guy

In his defense, he asked me how I knew that my brakes needed fixed and I said:
"Driving around these last few months has heightened my awareness, sharpened my reflexes, and occasionally brought me closer to God."

He laughed and said that I reminded him of is wife.

Then I brought out my new jacket and started pinning the facing to the lapel, that's when I reminded him of his mother.
I said, "If you ever tell you wife that while she's cooking, don't eat anything that she serves."

As for the jacket

2009-10-16T07:13:00.002-05:00

I spent just enough time on it last night to noticed that I had not only gotten my under and upper collar pieces mixed up, the sleeve pattern is marked as 14 1/2" in the upper bicep. I will at least need to recut the upper collar, I put a seam down the middle (to save fabric ironically). I still have about 1 1/2 yards left which I had planned to make pants out of, I guess I will make a skirt instead.

Does anyone know where I can get arm girdles?

On the up side, my Marfy patterns might come today. =)

Happy Friday, maybe...

2009-10-16T06:55:00.004-05:00

I always get like this before a test, an overwhelming urge to cry... I don't feel ready, I never feel ready.

What was I thinking scheduling a job interview today? On a Friday no less. It would be so easy to take the rest of the day and go to The Houston Quilt Show, but I really must come home and study. I am so tired of saying that...

For the record, Active Testing is relative...

I hope that the people that I am interviewing with don't mind if I bring my notecards...

Just one of those days...

2009-10-14T21:38:00.007-05:00

They postponed my interview until lunch time on Friday. I test on Saturday, so I tried to put it off until Monday. We all know how productive and timely Friday meeting are, Grrrrr.

Just to make this better, it might rain on Friday. At leasts I won't be out in black wool in 90 degree heat!

I am making progress on my Vogue 1126 jacket! Yes, it will have sleeves...

The back it going to be really cute if I can get past that little fitting issue, or lose 10 lbs.

Oh, and I got my nails done and it looks crappy, NIIIICE!

Finally! Marfy 9468

2009-10-13T11:48:00.006-05:00

I am going to declare this done! I am not smiling much because I am standing in smooshy grass, and it is just about to rain -AGAIN-

Look at the great fit on those shoulders:

Now to finish my review, then I can get back to that suit jacket. *Or, I could study*

Marfy 9468 Inseam Welt Pockets

2009-10-12T12:42:00.031-05:00

This is how I made those cute little welt pockets on my Marfy 9468 white shirt.

First, let me show how well the pattern is marked: You can see that the marked letters F, H and B line up with the corresponding letters on the corresponding pieces. You can also see that there is a notch to mark both the front sleeve and where the shoulder seam lines up on the collar. How well they mark these points actually helps with garment assembly better than some of the of the companies actual instructions do.

Step 1: Sew lower front pieces together.

Step 2: Sew the yoke to the lower front from point 'F' to the sleeve, and from the other edge of the pocket opening to the front band 'H'. This should leave an opening in the seam between the yoke and the lower front. *Note* You are only sewing this to the one layer of the yoke. I didn't attache the yoke facing until Step 13 for a cleaner finish.

Step 3: Layout 2 of the pocket welts next to the pocket opening with the folded edge (blue line)out, and the open edges (pink line) towards each other. Lay the pocket pieces on top of the welts.

Step 4: Mark the stitching lines (gray line) on the pockets from the edge of the pocket opening, basically following the line on the patern pieces.

*Important* make sure that your welts will meet in the middle. I used 5/8 seam allowances, making sure that I had 5/8" on both sides of the seam line.

Step 5: Carefully stitch on the stitching lines (gray lines here).

Step 6: Clip the fabric to the corner of the seam at an angle being careful to clip as close to the corner as you can without clipping the stitching thread, as pictured in the upper welt.

Step 7: Pull the pocket pieces and the welts to the inside of the shirt tugging gently until the corners lay relatively flat.

Step 8: Fold the upper pocket down over the lower pocket with the crease at the top of the upper welt.

Step 9: Line up the pocket pieces, pull the welts flat and press well with lots of steam and a pressing block.

Step 10: From the side of the pocket that is up against the inside of the shirt, pin the pocket pieces together. Make sure that the little corners of the welts and the shirt lay flat and pin.

Step 11: From the side of the pocket next to the shirt, (using your zipper foot) sew the pocket pieces together being careful to catch the little points of the welts.

Step 12: Serge around the edges so that the raveling doesn't drive you nuts.

Step 13: Now you put the inner yoke piece over the back of the pocket matching up the shoulder notch and the neckline edges. For a nice clean finish, I folded under the lower edge and hand stitched it to the inside of the pocket and the lower front. You can still include it into the other 3 seams for a nice clean finish.

Step 14: Slip stitch the welts closed from the right side.

What can you say about company logo CROCS

2009-10-11T13:01:00.005-05:00

All that I can say is that I have gone on to a better place, and I will never again have to admit that I ever put these on my feet. All the girls who worked at CDM got these in their goody bag at the last company Christmas party. They are even more uncomfortable than they look. I don't know whos idea these things were, or how much the company paid for them, but I am sure that those in the new "Mother Ship" corporate office will not authorize the purchase of company logo crocs this year.

In fact, the entire Company Christmas party was cancelled.

My deepest sympathies to those who still have to pretend to drink the Koolaid.

More on sewing later, I just paused to clean out my closet.

More Marfy Amore!

2009-10-09T17:01:00.005-05:00

I ordered more patterns today.

Finish one, buy ten more, there has to be something wrong with the math. I am absolutely enamored with the style, the simplicity and the drafting. I also ordered 2 unpictured patterns from the 2009 catalog: blouse 1925, and jacket 1863. I narrowed it down to the ones that fit my life now, and I will still love years from now.

I guess I had better get sewing.

I can't wait for the 2010 catalog which comes out in January.

I also have good news on the job front. I scheduled and interview for next Wednesday at 10AM.
It is about 1/2 mile from one of my favorite fabric stores!

I haven't decided if that is a good thing, or a bad thing.

Marfy Amore!

2009-10-08T21:08:00.004-05:00

Why do I ever sew anything else, ever? Why did I ever doubt you, those pockets are fantastic, except I didn't put in the zippers. I thought that putting them in the pockets would dress it down a bit, and I am dressing things up.

Look at that length! I usually have to add 2", not shorten.

*sigh* I can go to bed happy, even though my phone didn't ring once today. Thats OK, I have more Marfy's!

I still need to do the serging, and the hem. I also need to find some little buttons. Oh, the inner collar seam needs sewn, and the sleeves cuffed.

I also need to write up the process on those pockets.

Tomorrow, McCall's 5597 assembly, and maybe cutting that vogue suit.
I will also order some more Marfy's...

White Shirt Bliss

2009-10-06T17:42:00.004-05:00

I have actually been sewing a bit lately. I have gotten one of those dear little pockets on that white shirt, even though I am not terribly proud of myself.

It is harder than it looks, at least I thought so. I thought that having the pocket on a seam would make it easier, but the seam allowances actually make it really bulky. The bulkiness of the seam allowances on the sides of the pocket made it more difficult to get the welts on the pockets close together.

I would skip the pocket on the other side, but the fabric is a bit thin, and the double layer makes it a bit more opaque.

Another thing that I noticed about this pattern, that front band is more narrow than many shirts that you see. I guess I didn't make a note of that when I laid out the pattern pieces. I don't think it looks bad, I rather like it, but it may have an affect on the size of buttons that I use.

Strange Days Indeed

2009-10-06T14:28:00.002-05:00

I've started job searching over the last couple of days, and it is a different environment than it was even six months ago. I met with the head of a well connected, well known CPA recruiter back in April. Then we got together at a swank little restaurant in uptown park (across from her Post Oak office) for breakfast, and she advised me to finish my exam, then we could take over the world. Then she rode off into the sunset with her designer bag and her bright red designer suit.
Just 6 months later she has moved her office to a co-op on the second floor of an out of the way office building between a retirement community and an apartment complex. She has also traded in the uber-stylish red for a gray pinstripe pant suit with a poly chiffon scarf.
The story has been just the same in the other two agencies that I have visited. Offices that used to bustle with excitement are now hush, and feel more like doctors offices. I met with Carol yesterday. She has hooked me up with two of my previous jobs. She did a great job of trying to be enthusiastic and up beat, but there was a change in her tone.
Don't get me wrong, there is hope. I need to submit some references, and tweak some things on my resume. But the work that I have put into kicking up my qualifications will pay off.

The ironic things is that having passed 3/4ths of the test instead of all of it works in my favor. Actually being certified would price me out of the market. I am not so desperate that I will give up any money, but I am hirable at atleast what I was making before.

Juggling...

2009-10-03T23:06:00.011-05:00

I have been working on that Marfy skirt 1985 this weekend, here it is pictured with the Vogue jacket that I just finished. I didn't include it because I was busy watching the dump truck parade and forgot to smile. It looks deceptively complete in that picture, but look closer.

Even before you see the selvage hanging there at the end (in places) where the hem should be, you have to notice that the pinstripes don't always line up, and that whole centerpleat really doesn't lay right. Regardless of those things, it looks pretty good with that red jacket.

This was part of a wardrobe contest last May, if you think it looks good with the red jacket, you should see it with the matching one that I have cut out. Ironically, the white silk blouse from a previous post was also part of that plan.

I actually got the pants put together, but they were about 2 sizes too small. I actually got the blouse put together and got started on the fitting. Same with the skirt (I don't have a waisband, so I will have to find that Kay Y waistband that she did.)

I love that jacket! I must get more interfacing. Paammm... where is your email. I am so ready for some fabulous fusible interfacing.

Tomorrow I will show you my new white shirt.

I have even cut the sleeves, pockets, and collars. All that i need to cut is the interfacing. I am thinking that the white silk organza will work for interfacing.

What's Next...

2009-10-01T22:59:00.005-05:00

Now that I have sent that lined jacket off to the cleaners, I am moving on. Filing for unemployment this afternoon really inspired me to get something interview like on the road. I am going to start with this quasi-professional shirt that you can download for free here: http://manequim.abril.com.br/faca-e-use/moldes/molde-de-blusa-de-tricoline-448174.shtml

I know, accountant like things that are in rows and columns, but how can you argue with "free down loadable," the only down side is that my Portuguese is a bit rusty. I know that I should be looking for something more fall like with long sleeves, but it is so hard to get in the fall spirit when it is 90 outside.

I am also working on those UFO's. I dug out the sleeves for the white blouse this morning, so I hope to get that done this weekend.

I also tried on a skirt that I started for another wardrobe project last May that I will get to pretty soon. This skirt is in black with a red pinstripe, which gave me a good opportunity to turn those stripes cross grain in the hem insets on the sides. The skirt is underlined with silk organza for a nice crispness that swings when I walk. I will post pictures tomorrow.

Thank goodness I don't have to work for a living, yet.

Sewing Shouldn't be this Hard (WTH)

2009-10-01T00:28:00.016-05:00

I finally finished my lined jacket contest entry. I like to leave things down to the wire for suspense... It isn't exactly what I imagined, but I know that it could have been a lot worse... I will get better, natural light pictures tomorrow when there actually is natural light.

Burda has really outdone themselves with this one. I love this collar, the way that is it inset is so Marfy, but the fit is more like Butterick. This graced the cover of October 2008, it is incredibly stylish, yet there have been no reviews... What could be the problem?

Personally, I have traced, looked, contemplated, cogitated, and inquired, but I don't think it is possible with a complete neck facing. Or, even and incomplete neck facing, as you may notice the only facing is the lapel facing and the band on the collar. Look closely at the pattern, the only facing alluded to is the front facing which doesn't continue to the side seam.

You will notice on the front/facing piece posted here, the facing part of the front only extends to the point (the X in orange towards the bottom of the picture) that it connects to the sleeve and the band of the collar.

As per Burda's instructions (which we all know are written in German, then loosely translated into English by people who don't sew), you sew the collar together and finish it. Then you "stitch onto inside edges of facing, from seam number 8, and onto neck edge from corner of neckline." Now, you Burda lovers out there know that these things don't come with seam allowances, and the X in the picture is about 2" below the seam line of the lapel, but it lines up with the edge of the facing. So, the collar band is only sewn to the facing on the front edge, and only sewn to the neckline on the bottom edge? Huh?

Well, it does say "Stitch lining to inside edges of facing and collar band." Like this:

The lining is then sewn along the edge (that borders on point 8) that is on the right side of the orange line.

Well, it makes much more sense now that I have had the second glass of wine... I should have started yesterday. Even though my typing was better, I would not have needed to pull out the Trig book, or call the engineer. Seriously, my sewing guru Peggy L was even confused.

I still have a problem with this. The collar band only measured 15" for a size 40. The short piece that I needed for my jacket didn't extend down the front and still had to be lengthened by 3/4". So, the neckline edge for a size 40 would have to be lengthened by 4".

I like the obtusely shaped buttons. I almost picked some nice shell buttons that looked like they matched in the dining room, but when I took a picture they magically turned purple: I went with the gold, I can change later.

For now, that was enough fun for one night. the cats have given up on me and went to bed, I shall follow.

Moving Forward

2009-09-30T07:28:00.003-05:00

I think I have worked out the collar question, at least in theory:

I like the look even though it is a tad shorter than the lapel I don't think I will be changing it. However, I do need to take it apart and sew the convertible collar in correctly. By that I mean the body and the undercollar, the upper collar and the facing need to be sewn to each other. I think that I will like the way that they look though.

I was up pretty late working on those pockets, but they are in, and thanks to Peggy those sleeve bumps are gone. I also have the lining together and ready to sew to the facing. I like the placement of the hem, and I need to bring those sleeves up a couple of inches.

As for that BWOF jacket that I was trying to morph, all I ended up with was a great big WTF, even Peggy didn't understand it so I didn't feel so badly.

A Question of Collar...

2009-09-29T09:35:00.005-05:00

I think that I will really like the fit, but the collar isn't going to do exactly what I imagined. I was attempting to do this: but I really struggled with getting the upper collar to sit inside the lapel. After reading the directions a 4th time, and sleeping on it more than once, I have figured out what my problem is. I was confused because the pattern only has a facing for the front band and the lapel, like a shirt. It doesn't continue around the neck edge like the Vogue pattern that I am starting with. In fact, the point of the end of the collar extends about 2" below the neck edge. What I don't think is really clear in the instructions is the fact that the end of the collar band is sewn to the facing, not the jacket body. Also, the collar band is really short at only 7 1/2" long. I don't know how tight the neck edge actually is, but I made mine considerably smaller than the pattern and it was still 8 1/4" long and it just reaches the turn of the lapel. In order for it to extend down the front for the Burda jacket style, I would have to add at least another 2" to each side.

Now, I could do this by recutting the collar. I have about 26" left that I was saving for a skirt. I could sacrifice having a complete suit in order to make it look like what I was aiming for. I have other things that I could wear it with like black, gray, black w/red pinstripe.

That is where I am for now. I will probably update later after I consult with my sewing guru.

Sleeveless in Houston!

2009-09-27T19:25:00.006-05:00

I have been trying to make good use of my rare time off by going through my sewing room, and man do I have a mountain of UFOs. Just starting with the stuff hanging in hangers on my door are 4 beautiful shirts, 1 casual and 3 that might work for job interviews:

Looking at this might lead one to question my devotion sleeves. Why do I have a block with sleeves? Maybe it is because once you put the sleeves on, you have committed yourself to the fit of the rest of the shirt. We seamstresses are so unbelievably particular about fit. We get things to a point that infinitely better than RTW, but then we wrinkle our noses and fuss over the slightest pull or wrinkle. Speaking of wrinkles, the one on that beautiful silk blouse in the middle disappeared with pressing. The one on left with the wrinkles by the shoulder will require re-sewing of the inset and a square shoulder adjustment, both of which should take about half an hour. As for the one on the right, I need to let out the side seams and get back on the treadmill.

These wrinkles and minor adjustments have left me with a doorknob cluttered with hangers of rejected "close-but-not-quite" garments that I barely remember starting. I have a million dollar wardrobe in the some assembly required stage.

This isn't all the shirts, some of them are still in ziplock bags so that the sleeves at least have a chance of staying with the rest of the garment. I also have 2 pairs of jeans, 2 pairs of pants and a pretty terrific looking skirt.

The fact that I have lost about 10 lbs over the last 6 months has immensely helped with the fitting challenges, and I certainly have more time now than I am ever likely to have again. I guess the only excuse that I have now is motivation, so before I go any further, I am going to go work on that red jacket before it is doomed to be a UFO forever.